Except for normal skin any other skin condition poses a challenge when it comes to finding the appropriate skin care. The preparations should protect the skin but the active agents should perfectly arrive at the spot where they are needed. According to the corneotherapeutic theory established by Professor Dr. Albert Kligman, the Gordian knot is untied by transporting the active agents via so-called transport vehicles into the skin and then reclosing the skin barrier with lamellar cream bases without sealing the skin surface. This procedure minimizes the wash out of active agents and skin care components during skin cleansings. The individual steps As a matter of fact, the treatment of acne, neurodermatitis & co. pertains to the responsibilities of a physician. However, in addition to the medical treatment, each problem skin also needs appropriate cosmetic care which is every bit as important as the medication. In order to achieve adequate results though, a correct skin analysis and detailed background knowledge on cosmetic active agents are required. The trial and error method here only is time-consuming and annoys the persons affected. The following chart provides some clues on the potential active agents
Skin type | Cleansing | Peeling | Toning (lotion) | Masks | Massage | | Dry and low-fat skin | Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or triglycerides (milk) | Jojoba beads; no peelings in case of cracked skin | Phosphatidylcholine, D-panthenol | Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E, linoleic acid Radical scavengers: Oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPC) Moisturizers: Amino acids, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe, alginic acids Astringents (for cracked skin): Gallic acid, tannins, polyphenols Barrier protection: Phytosterols, ceramides, long-chained fatty acids, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, triglycerides, squalane | Wheat germ oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil | | Barrier-disordered skin prone to inflammations | Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or triglycerides (milk) | no | Phosphatidylcholine, D-panthenol; CM-glucan before wet shaving | Anti-inflammatory: α- and γ-linolenic acid, boswellia acids Anti-itching: Urea, allantoin, fatty amides Antimicrobial: Betulinic acid Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E, linoleic acid Moisturizers: Amino acids, hyaluronic acid, glycerin; after laser treatments and shavings also CM-glucan, alginic acid, aloe Barrier protection: Phytosterols, ceramides, long-chained fatty acids, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, triglycerides, squalane | Evening primrose oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil | Senile skin: horny dry, wrinkled | Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or triglycerides (milk) | Jojoba beads or enzymes | Phosphatidylcholine, D-panthenol | Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E, phytohormones, phosphatidylcholine Moisturizers: Amino acids, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, alginic acids Metabolic stimulators: Caffeine, green tea, coenzyme Q10 Radical scavengers: Oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPC) Wrinkle reduction: Spilanthol, peptides Barrier protection: Phytosterols, ceramides, long-chained fatty acids, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, triglycerides | Avocado oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil | Normal and combination skin
| Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or triglycerides (milk) | Jojoba beads or enzymes | D-Panthenol | Moisturizers: Amino acids, glycerin Barrier protection: Phytosterols, ceramides, long-chained fatty acids, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, triglycerides, squalane | Jojoba oil | Rosacea skin, couperosis skin
| Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or phosphatidylcholine, azelaic acid (lotion) | no | D-Panthenol | Anti-inflammatory: α- and γ-linolenic acid, boswellia acids Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E Moisturizers: Amino acids, glycerin Radical scavengers: Oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPC) Antimicrobial: Azelaic acid, betulinic acid Vaso-stabilizing: Echinacea, Butcher's broom Barrier protection: Phytosterols, ceramides, long-chained fatty acids, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, triglycerides, squalane | With mask components | Oily skin | Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) | Jojoba beads or enzymes | Phosphatidylcholine, D-panthenol | Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E, phosphatidylcholine In case of dry skin also moisturizers: Amino acids, glycerin | Rose hip seed oil | Blemished skin prone to acne | Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or phosphatidylcholine, azelaic acid (lotion); in case of dry skin possibly triglycerides (milk) | Enzymes; in case of dry skin also jojoba beads | Phosphatidylcholine, D-panthenol, azelaic acid | Anti-inflammatory: α- and γ-linolenic acid Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E, phosphatidylcholine, linoleic acid, phytohormones Antimicrobial: Azelaic acid Moisturizers (in case of dry skin): Amino acids, glycerin Barrier protection (in case of dry skin): Phytosterols, ceramides, long-chained fatty acids, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, triglycerides, squalane | Rose hip seed oil, wheat germ oil | After Sun
| Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or triglycerides (milk) | no | Phosphatidylcholine, D-panthenol, CM-glucan | Anti-inflammatory: α- and γ-linolenic acid, boswellia acids Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E; D-panthenol Moisturizers: Amino acids, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, alginic acids, aloe | Possibly with mask components | Psoriasis prone skin | Alkyl polyglycosides (gel) or phosphatidylcholine, fumaric acid (lotion) | no | Phosphatidylcholine, D-panthenol, fumaric acid | Anti-inflammatory: α-, γ-linolenic acid and boswellia acids Antimicrobial: Betulinic acid Skin recovery: Vitamins A, B3, C, E, fumaric acid Barrier protection: Phytosterols, ceramides, long-chained fatty acids, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, triglycerides, squalane | With mask components |
Annotations to the different treatment steps Cleansing: Alkyl polyglycosides are an example for very gentle cleansing components in gels. Triglycerides are typical fat solvents in emulsions (milk); the residues are removed with a little sponge or with water. Liposomal lotions with phosphatidylcholine (PC) are multifunctional, i.e. they cleanse and simultaneously transport PC-bound linoleic acid (anti-inflammatory) and optionally azelaic acid (antimicrobial) into the skin; and in case of psoriasis also fumaric acid. Peeling: Jojoba beads are gentle wax bodies for the mechanical exfoliation.
There is a large variety of enzyme peelings as for instance in form of powders to be mixed with water and to be left on the skin for some time before they are rinsed off with water. Toning means to prepare the skin for the passage of active agents. This requires components such as PC and D-panthenol since they prepare the skin barrier for the permeation of the active agents of the following mask. Exception: CM-glucan. Mask: The active agents that should pass the skin barrier are applied first. Subsequently, the barrier protective substances are lightly massaged into the skin (Exceptions: oily skin and after sun products). The massage can possibly be intensified by using massage oils. Massage: The pure oils can be applied directly or in combination with the barrier protective substances as indicated for the mask. Convenient in this context are analogously combined massage creams.
The products for the skin care at home may contain active agents of the mask and the oils cited in the column "massage".
As the paper shows, the customized application of a relatively small repertoire of active agents already is sufficient in order to provide effective skin care for a multitude of different skin problems. Several agents cited in the chart are representative for other substances with similar efficacy (e.g. radical scavengers). On the other hand, several active agents, such as amino acids, are multifunctional (in this case moisturizers and radical scavengers), even if they are only cited for a specific application.
Dr. Hans Lautenschläger |
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