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This page provides a literature overview on articles about interesting topics of cosmetics and dermatology which have been published in specialist journals. The articles deal with skin analysis, active agents as well as details on the composition and use of cosmetic and dermatics. Also medical issues like problem skin, skin barrier and cornification disorders are covered. Please select on the left. The publications are available in full text and can be downloaded as pdf-files. (Remark: Here you find the complete list of publications and patents of Dr Lautenschläger)
You are welcome to integrate dermaviduals® publications on your own website. For details please refer to the service section on our website KOKO - the company. |
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Personalised skin care – technological and legal requirements
Part I: Customised care
Every skin condition is different and requires different, customised treatments and products at all times if skin care is to be optimal. Not an easy task. But beauty salons can achieve this. What personalisation options are available to beauticians and their customers? In Part I of this article, we look at the question of what personalisation, aka individualisation, means in skincare and what the technological and legal requirements are. published in Medical 2025 (2), 15-19 und 2025 (3), 20-21
Category: beauty institutes
Economical and sustainable care concept
Minimalist skincare has become an important topic in recent years – particularly in terms of sustainability, but also in terms of cost reduction. What is really desirable, what concepts are there and how can they be realised? published in Beauty Forum 2025 (3), 116-118
Category: beauty institutes
Digitalisation in cosmetics – what drives it
An app on our wristwatch reminding us when, how, with what and in what dosage to treat our skin during the day is still a dream of the future. But the sensors for this and many other digitalised processes and AI-controlled links are already an integral part of everyday cosmetics today. Let's take a closer look at the six forces driving digitalisation. published in Beauty Forum 2025 (2), 74-77
Category: beauty institutes
Skincare of the future
Predicting the future means looking into a crystal ball. Depending on the perspective, i.e. the horizon of the person looking, different ideas can be expected. This also applies to the following view of a cosmetics manufacturer. published in Medical 2025 (1), 16-20
Category: beauty institutes
Easy as pie? Skin care from 3 to 10 years
Infants, i.e. children in the first three years of life, require special skin care. The same applies to teenagers. In between is the age range of around 3-10-year-olds who attend nursery and primary school. What do parents need to know about their skin care? published in Beauty Forum 2025 (1), 20-22
Penetration enhancement – molecular mechanisms in the skin
The components of cosmetics and dermatological preparations either remain on the surface of the skin when applied or they penetrate the skin barrier, the epidermis, the dermis or the circulation. The depth of penetration determines whether the desired receptor is reached and the desired effect occurs. The aim is to achieve maximum effectiveness quickly with the least possible loss of substance. We explain the molecular background. published in Medical 2024 (6), 20-23
Gentle care for sensitive times – palliative skin care
Skin care is an important component of palliative care and end-of-life care for terminally ill patients in order to make their remaining time as bearable as possible. However, there are a few things to bear in mind. published in Medical 2024 (5), 20-23
Trend towards physiological ingredients – phosphatidylserine in skin care* )
Where is skin care heading in the future? The key aspects are explained against the background of the properties of a cosmetic active ingredient from the phospholipids group. published in Chemie in unserer Zeit 2024, 58 (5), 93-97 Copyright © 2023 Wiley-VCH GmbH Reproduced with permission
Category: special actives
Painful cracks in the skin
Skin rashes are deep, fissure-shaped tears in the skin that usually occur on the hands or feet. Read here to find out what causes them and which measures and active ingredients help to restore the skin barrier weakened by cracks. published in Beauty Forum 2024 (10), 74-76
Synergy effects: Pre- and aftercare for aesthetic procedures
Aesthetic operations are booming. It is more or less about modelling the whole body. Skin care plays a decisive role in restoring intact skin after surgery. But even before the operation, the right choice of skincare can ensure good skin condition and thus contribute to an optimal result for patients and clients. published in Beauty Forum 2024 (9), 94-96
Sport & exercise - influences on the skin
Exercise is not very popular across all generations. This has an impact on the body and health. The skin is also affected. A lack of exercise can lead to reduced blood circulation and therefore a dull complexion. It can increase stress levels, which often leads to skin problems. The production of collagen, on the other hand, is reduced by a lack of physical activity, which causes the skin to age prematurely. We take a closer look at the connections here. published in Medical 2024 (4), 56-60
KOKO: Specialist for dermatological cosmetics
KOKO Kosmetikvertrieb GmbH & Co KG celebrates its thirtieth anniversary on 3 August 2024. The company develops, produces and distributes dermatological cosmetics under the dermaviduals® trademark to cosmetic institutes and dermatological practices, including private clinics with an attached cosmetics department, as well as to authorised pharmacies. published in Diskurs Dermatologie 2024 (4), 13-15
Category: beauty institutes
To the point – pigment spots
Skin pigmentation is valued differently around the world. In Asian countries, the aim is to have skin that is as light in colour as possible, while in Europe the aim is to have slightly tanned skin. Apart from these locally differing ideals, the aim everywhere is to prevent and/or cosmetically treat pigmentation spots and localised lack of pigmentation on the skin. published in Medical 2024 (3), 24-27
Questionable "free from" advertising
Regardless of the industry, a lot is promised in advertising that does not necessarily correspond to reality. In the cosmetics and food industries, advertising often focuses on emphasising ingredients. For some time now, however, advertising has also been focussing on components that are not contained in a product. What should we make of these claims? published in Medical 2024 (2), 20-23
Category: beauty institutes
Skin care for teenagers
Young people are literally apprentices when it comes to their skincare. What is important and what should they know? We have put together some practical advice here. published in Beauty Forum 2024 (2), 68-70
Skin care and the microbiome
The entirety of all living organisms on our skin is known as the skin microbiome and serves as a natural protective barrier against external influences. But how exactly do skin care products influence the skin microbiome and, above all, what influence does the skin microbiome have on cosmetic ingredients? These questions are closely linked to the effectiveness and tolerability of cosmetics. A close look at the skin microbiome and metabolic performance by substance group answers these questions. published in Medical 2024 (1), 14-18
Active ingredient qualities – from natural to vegan
Active ingredients are a hotly contested area in cosmetics – both on the part of manufacturers and among users. The assessment of their qualities is not only characterised by factual arguments, but also by philosophical and even esoteric viewpoints. This results in approval or rejection as well as placebo and nocebo effects during use. published in Medical by Beauty Forum 2023 (6), 12-14
Category: beauty institutes
Cancer – adjuvant skin care
Cancer treatments are very stressful for the psyche and body. The skin is also sometimes severely affected and causes problems for those affected. You can provide valuable help here with the right skin care before and after treatment. published in Kosmetik International, Top Medical 2023 (1), 36-39
How competitive are beauty salons?
Can beauty salons survive in an environment of constant change in the future? This question is asked above all by those who are about to make the decision to become self-employed. What answers can be given to them? published in Kosmetik und Pflege 2023 (4), 24-26
Category: beauty institutes
Enzymes and fermentation
Enzymes play a central role in our lives – not only within our bodies, but also on the surface of our skin and in our diet. Bacterial and fungal cultures with their enzymes have been used for food fermentation since time immemorial. Can skincare benefit from this? published in Beauty Forum 2023 (9), 46-48
Category: special actives
Nuts and nut-like fruits
Apple, nut and almond kernel – don't worry, Father Christmas isn't knocking, but it's about an insight into kernel-like compositions that play a role in food and skin care. published in medical by Beauty Forum 2023 (4), 16-17 und 2023 (5), 14-17
The green laboratory
There is a lot of discussion about sustainability. First and foremost, people think of products and their environmental compatibility, and more recently also their climate compatibility and the minimisation of their legacies – in other words, waste. But is that all? We have taken a closer look at one area and want to go into detail on the basis of this. It's about research and development, where it all begins. published in Beauty Forum 2023 (7), 68-69
Category: beauty institutes
Sodium and potassium
Metals are mostly solid matter. It is quite different with the light metals sodium and potassium. You don't even see them, and yet they are present everywhere – even in your own body. Since the beginnings of life in the primordial oceans, they have always been present. published in medical by Beauty Forum 2023 (3), 14-15
Phytohormones – border crossers in cosmetics
Plant isoflavones – also known as phytohormones – are exogenous organic compounds and are particularly used in anti-ageing skin care. published in Beauty Forum 2023 (5), 56-58
Category: special actives
Is titanium dioxide without alternative?
Titanium dioxide was banned in food in August 2022 because a carcinogenic effect cannot be completely ruled out. Since then, substitutes for the pigment have been under discussion, among others in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and emulsion paints. In sunscreens, titanium dioxide still plays a dominant role as an alternative to the chemical-synthetic filters. published in Beauty Forum 2023 (3), 96-98
Strong protectors – stabilising antioxidants
Antioxidants protect the skin from free radicals. To do this, they should be as stable as possible. Read here how this can be implemented in the development of topical preparations. published in Medical by Beauty Forum 2023 (2), 12-15
Category: special actives
Biopolymer – Hyaluronic acid in skin care
It is found in the eyes, skin and joints and is generally found in many tissues of the human body. In total, each of us contains about 15 g of this disaccharide polymer, which can bind many times its own weight in water: Hyaluronic acid – it is indispensable especially in the cosmetics industry. published in Chemie in unserer Zeit 56 (1), 6-7 (2022)
Category: special actives
Gold and silver
Precious metals radiate eternity. Who would not like to immortalise themselves with gold and silver? Even the ancient cultures used the metals not only as jewellery, but also as burial objects. We can still admire much of this today in museums. published in medical by Beauty Forum 2023 (1), 20-21
Cooperation is everything – cosmetics and the skin microbiome
Microorganisms perform extensive metabolic feats that depend on their individual enzyme equipment. They absorb substances, digest them and produce others, which they store or release to the outside world. published in Medical by Beauty Forum 2022 (6), 9-11
Category: skin protection
Three times active against wrinkles
Cosmetic active ingredients have multiple functions. Taken together, the spectrum of activities corresponds to the typical set of instruments against premature skin ageing, i.e., anti-aging. It can be divided into preventive protective, regenerative and anti-inflammatory activities. Sustainability plays an increasingly important role here. published in Beauty Forum 2022 (12), 48-50
Science: Skin Cleansing
Before now the cleansing of the skin and particularly of the facial skin was a quite simple act requiring water and maybe a bar of soap. Today it has developed into a scientific procedure, which is almost incomprehensible without basic knowledge in chemistry, physics and microbiology. published in Beauty Forum 2022 (11), 62-64
Corneotherapy – Quo vadis?
Strengthening and maintaining the health of the stratum corneum is the goal of corneotherapy. What is important in the material composition, which application possibilities there are and why it is still not mainstream, you can find out here. published in Beauty Forum 2022 (9), 48-49
Anti-aging products and treatments under the microscope
When it comes to anti-aging products, the question arises as to what has a superficial, temporary, substantial or lasting effect against signs of aging in the skin. Keeping an overview has become difficult. Find out the most important facts, effective treatment methods and sustainable active ingredients here. published in Medical by Beauty Forum 2022 (4), 10-13 and (5), 18-19
Sustainable skin care
Sustainability in cosmetics incorporates findings from dermatology and physiology. Cosmetic preparations with this concept are increasingly used for skin care accompanying indications – without the side effects of conventional medicines. published in Beauty Forum 2022 (7), 42-44
Category: beauty institutes
Cosmetic preparations against dry and tired eyes
In times of pandemics and mask-wearing, the eyes have become especially important. They radiate curiosity, conviction, enthusiasm, joy, sadness, stress – and fatigue. published in Diskurs Dermatologie 2022 (3), 16-17
Titanium dioxide – the whitener
Until now, the use of titanium dioxide as an excipient in food, medicines, cosmetics and many other articles of daily life was considered harmless to health. But for some time now, concerns and restrictions have been increasing. We have compiled the background information for you. published in Beauty Forum medical 2022 (3), 16-17
Enjoyment without regret: Light damage – prevention & regeneration
In moderate doses, sunlight stimulates our organism and psyche. In too high doses, UV radiation causes the skin to age prematurely and light damage to occur. Read below how these can be avoided or treated. published in Kosmetik International, Top Medical 2022 (1), 8-11
Category: skin protection
Problem skin – relapses in skin care and dermatology – how to handle them?
In medical terminology, the expression relapse describes the reoccurrence of a disease or a symptom after an already finished treatment. Relapses also occur in the dermatological or cosmetic context when disorders reappear after a successful treatment phase. Find out here what causes the relapses and for which indications the accompanying skin care makes sense. published in Beauty Forum 2022 (3), 56-57 und 2022 (5), 56-57
Regional and sustainable – hemp, evening primrose, marigold & co.
Exotic natural substances are still the bestsellers in cosmetics. But in terms of effectiveness, domestic extracts, essential and fatty oils do not have to hide. The overview shows examples of which natural substances are not only ecological, but also sustainable in terms of treatments. published in Beauty Forum medical 2022 (2), 13-15
Product advertising – just not too creative
Advertising stimulates business. And digitalisation opens up many opportunities to disseminate sales-promoting information cost-effectively alongside print media. However, this is often overlooked: Not everything is allowed – this also applies to the cosmetics industry. published in Kosmetik International 2022 (3), 86-88
Category: beauty institutes
Minimalist and effective
Cosmetic products reduced to the essentials: The trend of skin minimalism follows the assumption that even in cosmetics, the maximum is by no means always the best. Neither for the skin nor for the environment. published in Kosmetik International 2022 (3), 46-48
Category: beauty institutes
Immediate effects – revenue generators at the institute
Nothing is more convincing than the difference between before and after. Especially when just one treatment has improved the appearance of the skin and a skin problem is hardly there anymore. But how can such visible immediate effects be achieved? published in Kosmetik & Pflege 2022 (1), 44-45
Category: beauty institutes
Calcium and magnesium – the stony elements
After sodium (Na) and potassium (K), calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are the most common (metallic) elements in our bodily metabolism. published in Beauty Forum medical 2022 (1), 26-27
Phosphorus – concentrated energy
Although it accounts for hardly one per cent in the earth crust phosphorus is an essential component in all forms of life. In the cells, it is capable of storing and transporting energy as phosphoric acid. published in Beauty Forum medical 2021 (4), 22-23
Silicon – the chained element
Weder Metall noch Nichtmetall – Silicium ist ein sogenanntes Halbmetall mit ganz besonderen Eigenschaften. veröffentlicht in Beauty Forum medical 2021 (5), 20-21
10 major skin care errors in the cold season
Year after year the same situation at the end of autumn: leisure activities retreat indoors, sports activities are gradually reduced, heating period begins and the light comes from artificial sources. And every year we are caught off guard that the skin also reacts to the new situation, sometimes sooner sometimes later, depending on the skin condition. published in Beauty Forum 2021 (11), 58-59
Category: skin protection
Skin and skin care – physiology and chemistry in balance? * )
No chemical, only natural or biologically grown ingredients – this is a very popular attitude to skin care products today. The molecular facts behind are far more complicated when addressing the details. Actually a very interesting topic for chemical scientists and the following outline of this multidisciplinary field will show why. published in Chemie in unserer Zeit 2021, 55 (5), 306-319 Copyright © 2021 Wiley-VCH GmbH Reproduced with permission
Less agents for more care? Skin care with few active agents
A long-term trend in cosmetics is to pack a large number of agents into the preparations in order to improve their convenience and enhance the optical criteria. The concept of “All inclusive” includes active agents and, similar to multivitamin pills, not only facilitates the work of the marketing department but also pleases customers as they can provide for all contingencies and have the best product to show. May be, or maybe not? published in Beauty Forum 2021 (6), 56-58
Inflammaging – the role of adequate skin care
Various causes are responsible for the human skin aging process. Research still remains to be done in order to clarify all the mechanisms involved in the highly complex interactions. A very recent research approach focuses on the so-called inflammaging or in other words the age-related inflammation of the skin. published in Diskurs Dermatologie 2021 (6), 28-29
Sulphur for a beautiful skin
Sulphur compounds sometimes are inconvenient but both commonplace and vital for our body and in particular for our skin and hair. published in Beauty Forum medical 2021 (4), 16-17
Can shower-baths be bad for your skin?
How often can you enjoy a shower bath without harming your skin? This obviously simple question just cannot be answered with another simple sentence. Actually it can’t be answered at all since it is wrongly asked. The following article shows why. published in Beauty Forum 2021 (7), 24-25 und Beauty Forum 2021 (8), 36-37
Category: skin protection
Water – more than just wet
An old saying goes where there is water, there is life. During evolution the first forms of life developed in water. They adapted to the different water conditions. published in Beauty Forum medical 2021 (3), 24-25
Nitrogen – a driving force
With a ratio of 78 per cent, nitrogen is the most important element in air. A multitude of its compounds can be found in skin care preparations. published in Beauty Forum medical 2021 (2), 22-23
Oxygen – a premier class element
We inhale it and egest the largest part of it in the form of carbon dioxide and water. It is transparent and without any scent. There is talk of oxygen: a colourless gas that only appears bluish when seen from the outer space and that we all seem to know. published in Beauty Forum 2021 (2), 42-44
Oxygen – more than just hot air
Oxygen is ubiquitous – in air and bound in water and in many other substances around us in our daily life. The colourless gas is full of surprises as the following article shows. published in Beauty Forum medical 2021 (1), 18-19
Thermal springs – an overview on thermal waters
Thermal springs are attractive destinations for people. Heat and the dissolved minerals and gases determine the physiological properties and hence the effects on health and personal wellbeing. published in Beauty Forum medical 2021 (1), 70-72
Taskforce TEWL – for a healthy skin barrier
The water balance in the skin is extremely important not only for the skin but for the whole body. In the evolutionary process it was vital to survival to build up a barrier against dehydration. Keeping this protective skin barrier in a healthy and intact state still is one of the major tasks of skin care. published in Beauty Forum medical 2020 (6), 26-29
Small but mean – plastics and microplastics in cosmetic products
Plastic materials with their partly harmful additives such as plasticisers, antioxidants and Co. continue to be criticised because of the ecological problems they implicate. Mainly the outer packaging, the containers but also the ingredients of cosmetic products are involved, in particular, if it is a matter of small particles or, in other words, microplastics. veröffentlicht in Kosmetik International 2021 (2), 92-94
Rosacea: use of skin care boosters – prevention and therapy
The treatment of rosacea is an excellent example for the interaction of medical therapy and cosmetic prevention but also for the possibilities cosmeticians have at their disposal with purposefully adapted cosmetic measures aimed at minimizing or even superseding medical interventions. published in Beauty Forum medical 2020 (5), 30-31
The pH value of the skin and of cosmetic preparations
Many of the processes in physics and chemistry are non-linear processes. The following rule of thumb for the shelf life of cosmetic preparations can here be quoted as an example: The shelf life of a cosmetic cream (emulsion) halves when the temperature is raised by 10 °C while it doubles when the temperature is dropped by 10 °C. Similar applies to the pH value where an increase or a drop has a considerable impact on biochemical reactions and the activity of epidermal enzymes. How does the pH work? published in Beauty Forum 2020 (10), 54-56
Clever combinations – the effective and sustainable anti-aging treatment
It is a basic need for many individuals to retard the visible aging symptoms. That is why so-called “miracle agents” are booming as never seen before. Main focus is on achieving apparent effects in no time. However, anti-aging measures should supplement each other and have sustainable effects. published in Kosmetik International 2020 (10), 31-32
Category: beauty institutes
CO 2 – more than just a greenhouse gas
There is not a single day without the horror stories on climate change and its consequences, be it in newspapers, broadcasts or TV. One of the main polluters is carbon dioxide or abbreviated CO2. Many of its useful properties however get caught up in the maelstrom of the negative communication. The following paper is intended to partially rehabilitate the agent, among others also in the areas cosmetics and healthiness. published in Beauty Forum medical 2020 (4), 15-18
Active agents: any innovative substances or concepts?
"What’s new?" It’s a typical question cosmeticians ask during trade fairs and hear in beauty institutes from their customers. As a matter of fact, new developments accelerate and a great deal is changing although not everything can actually be identified as innovative. Hypes, trends, unnecessary and sustainable features appear side by side while actual relevance and medial presence often is wide apart. published in Beauty Forum 2020 (8), 52-55
Category: beauty institutes
Active agent concentrates – on the benefits of sera and ampoules
Active agents in concentrated form are a long-burning issue. Which of them are really effective and what can they achieve? Is their concentrated form the decisive factor or rather the carrier substance? Another question is what specific skin conditions can best be treated with concentrates? published in Kosmetik International 2020 (6), 12-15
Keeping an overview – What distinguishes topical medical devices from cosmetic products
The care of the skin, the supportive prevention and the therapy of skin diseases requires different products and compositions. They range from cosmetic preparations via topical medical devices up to topical pharmaceuticals. Experience shows that the differentiation between the individual product groups, the application and the effects of the products often is ambiguous. It is difficult for consumers to figure out the complex legal backgrounds, various sources of supply and notorious publicity campaigns. published in Kosmetik International Top Medical 2020 (1), 42-45
From A to K - Vitamin dictionary focussing on skin care
Besides minerals and omega-3- and omega-6-fatty acids, the vitamins are a group of vital substances for the human metabolism that can only be orally ingested or topically absorbed. Dr Lautenschläger, chemist, has compiled a list of the most important vitamins for the skin care. published in Beauty Forum medical 2020 (3), 14-17
Category: special actives
Keeping the intruders at bay - viral and bacterial infections acquired through skin and mucous membranes
Infections can then develop when bacteria, fungi, viruses and Co. penetrate the skin barrier or the mucous membranes. Only after conquering these obstacles, the intruders can attack the internal structures of the body. What are the factors that facilitate or complicate the process, though? What can we do in our daily life to impede this process? published in Beauty Forum 2020 (5), 50-52
Category: skin protection
Magistral preparations - Cosmetic and pharmaceutical combinations
From time immemorial, the tinctures, ointments, creams and inunctions for dermatological applications were compounded by pharmacists on a small scale or individually prepared based on traditional folk medicine recipes. At the present time prefabricated compounds make up the majority of the products sold in pharmacies and in the cosmetic field. For different reasons though, the interest in personalized formulations has currently been increasing. published in Beauty Forum medical 2020 (2), 22-25
Quantum of sun - prevention & recovery of photodamaged skin
A moderate amount of sunlight stimulates organism and mind in many ways. Sunlight in higher dosage causes premature skin aging and still more of it will induce photodamages. The tightrope walk now consists in benefitting from the positive effects for our health while avoiding premature skin aging and serious damages to our skin. published in Beauty Forum 2020 (3), 68-72
Hot and spicy - paracress, chillies, mustard and Co.
Nutrition and skin complexion are inextricably linked to each other. From time immemorial a multitude of food components have been applied directly onto the skin. That holds true for vitamins, lipids and a variety of other endogenous and herbal substances. However, who would have thought that cosmetic and dermatological treatments can be enhanced with pungent substances? published in Beauty Forum medical 2020 (1), 14-17
Category: special actives
Complexing agents & Co - ambivalent ingredients in cosmetic products
Stable and long lasting products are popular. Short-dated products or, in other words, products with short expiry dates are hard to sell. Long-lasting products frequently are associated with poor degradation profiles, though. Dr Hans Lautenschläger discusses the pros and cons of such ingredients. published in Beauty Forum medical 2019 (6), 14-17
Cosmetic devices & products - what is beneficial and what is unnecessary?
Cosmetic devices - the bigger and the more recent they are - demonstrate modernity. Digital displays are more convincing than words when it comes to skin diagnosis, treatment and consultation. They are a major key to success not only for customer acquisition but also in the daily routine. When cosmetic devices are combined with the application of cosmetic preparations we can even speak of a dream team. published in Beauty Forum 2019 (5), 14-18
Category: beauty institutes
Enzymes - to inhibit or to stimulate?
Enzymes control all the chemical reactions in living organisms. The following provides insight into their function and their effects and how they are used in the cosmetic field. published in Beauty Forum 2019 (9), 60-62
Microbiome and skin inflammation
Inflammatory processes in the skin are caused by external impacts or endogenic predispositions. Common cause is a metabolism disorder characterized by modified enzyme concentrations or enzyme defects. Also the protective mechanisms in the epidermis can be impaired. published in Beauty Forum medical 2019 (4), 24-25
Aluminium Update
Since the discussions on aluminium in skin care products swept the news about five years ago, aluminium salts have taken leave of antiperspirants and deodorant products. However aluminium compounds of natural or semi-synthetic origin still are used in cosmetic products. In the following we will draw up a provisional appraisal. veröffentlicht in Beauty Forum 2019 (7), 44-46
From creams to tonics - an overview on different types of applications
The supply of cosmetic products on the market is endless. It is difficult to keep track of the immense range of preparations - even for professionals. In addition to the different formulations there also is a large variety of types of application with all their advantages and disadvantages. The following overview shows which type of product is best suited for which purpose. published in Beauty Forum medical 2019 (3), 14-17
Pills to supplement the diet - the impact of food supplements on the skin
Food supplement sales are booming - not only in pharmacies. They are supposed to compensate organic deficits, de-acidify the body or relieve the skin from wrinkles. Which of the promises are realistic? published in Kosmetik International 2019 (6), 124-127
The seeming and the real - What really works: Cosmeceuticals, Placebos & Co.
The supply of products and promises are booming in the anti-aging beauty care. Not only consumers but also professionals have a hard time staying on top of things. In the following you will find a summary on reliable but also dispensable substances. published in Beauty Forum 2019 (4), 66-67 and (5), 54-55
Fire and fire brigade - functioning of free radicals and antioxidants
Free radicals and antioxidants can be explained with the example of fire and fire brigade. Although fire actually is dangerous, it is beneficial when under control. Antioxidants can limit the damage when they are used in the right context. Superfluity of them is useless and even counterproductive. Dr Lautenschläger reports on the positive and negative aspects of radicals and antioxidants. published in medical Beauty Forum 2019 (2), 20-23
Category: special actives
Natural resources - herbal oils in skin care
Customers like herbal oils. Those who use or recommend them should be familiar with the matter, though, since customers also expect substantiate advice. Dr Hans Lautenschläger has compiled some interesting information on the subject. published in Kosmetik International 2019 (4), 30-33
Minimalism in cosmetics - can less also be more?
What does really matter and what is unnecessary? A lot of people ask themselves such kind of almost philosophical questions on their lifestyle to find an alternative plan to today's excessive consumption. Are such minimalistic considerations also significant in the context of cosmetic care? published in medical Beauty Forum 2019 (6), 16-18
Category: beauty institutes
Hyaluronic acid & polysaccharides - for skin hydration and wrinkle reduction
Hyaluronic acid is a chain-shaped molecule composed of repetitive sugar-like units. Over the years hyaluronic acid has developed into an almost indispensable component in cosmetic preparations. And news continue to roll in..... published in medical Beauty Forum 2018 (6), 15-18
Category: special actives
Contents matter - evaluation of cosmetics
Short-, long-term- and adverse effects of cosmetics are at close quarters. Product characteristics are rather complex and even experts sometimes are baffled. That is why more and more evaluations of cosmetic products and their ingredients are found in respective internet portals. How these data are generated and how reliable are they? published in Beauty Forum 2018 (11), 34-36
Category: beauty institutes
Hormones control puberty, pregnancy and menopause - can we control their impact?
Hormones have direct impact on the skin. Individual, age-dependent processes but also long-term and temporary alterations come into play. published in Kosmetik International 2018 (10), 148-150
Hidden harmful substances in cosmetic products
The German Cosmetic Directive (KVO) ensures that the use of cosmetic products is non-hazardous to the health of consumers. As with any other legal regulations there are grey areas that we should know. published in medical Beauty Forum 2018 (4), 14-17
Too much radiation? Various causes of photodamages
An important topic for advice particularly during warm seasons is how to deal with radiation. Drug interaction or an overdose of sunlight can take a toll on the skin of customers. You are asked for advice! published in Kosmetik International Top Medical 2018, 6-9
Pigment disorders of the skin: causes and remedies
No matter whether dark or light skin - our skin colour is genetically determined. However there are other factors too that influence the complexion such as UV radiation or cosmetics. published in Kosmetik International 2018 (7), 126-128
Category: special actives
Studies in cosmetics - What is true?
If the question "Are there any studies on an active agent or a preparation" can be answered with „yes", you can be sure that science is involved and that there is an objective certificate for the truth content of an issue. However, can we really rely on it? published in medical Beauty Forum 2018 (3), 14-18
Cosmeceuticals - phospholipids
When it comes to cosmeceuticals, often the classics prove to be the highly efficient products and not the new substances freshly out of the retort. Besides vitamins and essential fatty acids, also the phospholipids rank among the classics. published in medical Beauty Forum 2018 (2), 14-18
Category: special actives
Skin & hormones
INTERVIEW - We (Beauty Forum) asked Dr. Hans Lautenschläger to explain how hormones influence the skin and what kind of skin care you could apply in the case of hormone-induced skin conditions. The scientist gives an insight into the use and effects of hormonally active substances and the reactions they trigger in the body. published in Beauty Forum 2018 (4), 60-61
Facial cleansing - ingredients & equipment
All sorts of things end up on the skin as the day progresses - a lot of them unintentionally, some deliberately, and what then remains is produced by the skin itself. Now the question arises how to cleanse the skin so that unwanted substances are removed on the one hand and that the skin will not suffer from repetitive cleansing rituals on the other hand? The following article deals with the daily cleansing procedures which should be individually reviewed and which also require instinctive feeling. published in medical Beauty Forum 2018 (1), 14-17
Endocrine disruptors - harmful for the endocrine system
Various substances have an effect on the hormonal balance. They occur in food, pharmaceutical drugs or cosmetics. Some of them have impeding effects. published in Kosmetik International 2018 (1), 52-55
Intimate care - sensible & gentle
For quite some time now, the discussions around the microbiome of the skin also have reached the intimate body areas. It has become apparent that body hygiene and body care are not only advantageous but also can be counterproductive to some extent. Men and women alike should know about the details that matter. published in medical Beauty Forum 2017 (6), 38-41
Glycols in skin care preparations and dermatics
Glycols are widely used as cosmetic additives or active agents in skin care preparations and dermatics. They ensure that preparations are microbiologically safe, have excellent haptic features and improve the skin moisture. Their specific features are described in the following. published in medical Beauty Forum 2017 (5), 14-18
Phosphates: the power suppliers for skin and hair
Life without phosphorus, that is unthinkable! Plants solubilize phosphate-containing rocks and soils with the help of their acids and then resorb the phosphoric acid contained therein. Humans ingest the element via food chain. published in Kosmetik International 2017 (10), 56-58
Category: special actives
Microorganisms - in and around our body
The daily struggle against microorganisms goes on but the fact is that we can't do without them. Their busy and invisible work for our well-being passes unnoticeable however their bad behaviour provides headlines, stress and high body temperature. There is talk of bacteria yeasts and fungi. published in medical Beauty Forum 2017 (4), 12-18
Anti-pollution cosmetics
Stricter laws have led to a drop of environmental pollution in Germany in the past decades. By the same token, the individual sensitivity to harmful environmental influences has been on the increase. Besides the products for skin protection, also "detox" cosmetics have become established today. An expert on the subject informs on mechanism and point of action. published in medical Beauty Forum 2017 (3), 12-15
Category: skin protection
Advantages of products without water and cosmetic additives
Water is an essential substance to maintain skin hydration and elasticity. However, there are also water-free products on the market. Why is that? When are they used and what are the benefits? published in Kosmetik International 2017 (6), 56-58
Sterile packaging - products and methods
There is one thing in common with food and skin care preparations: both are perishables. This is why sterile conditions are required for manufacturing, storage and application. Preservatives are just one of the options to ensure sterility. published in medical Beauty Forum 2017 (2), 12-16
Anti-aging treatments - are they still available without cosmetic devices?
Using modern skin care devices in cosmetic institutes becomes more and more popular, above all if it is a matter of anti-aging treatments. Frequently the clients ask for visible results and book skin care treatments with cosmetic devices. published in Kosmetik & Pflege 2017 (1), 22-23
Category: beauty institutes
Modular cosmetics
Modular cosmetic products help beauty institutes earn points with their customers. Certain basic conditions should be observed when using modular cosmetics. Dr. Hans Lautenschläger explains the parameters. published in medical Beauty Forum 2017 (1), 26-29
Anti-irritant agents
The tolerance of cosmetic preparations is an ongoing issue - among consumers as well as among manufacturers. Skin condition, subjective feeling and the objective properties of substances play a role in this context. published in Kosmetik International 2017 (1), 114-116
Category: special actives
Chain reaction - skin enzymes and enzyme defects
The human metabolism is a finely tuned system operated and maintained in balance by various chemical reactions. Enzymes are the facilitators that catalyse the individual reactions. Defects and mutations cause dysregulations which also have consequences for the skin. published in Beauty Forum 2017 (1), 52-55
Skin and body odours
Our body odour surrounds us like an aura. It contributes to whether we feel an instant attraction or dislike for another person. published in medical Beauty Forum 2016 (6), 12-17
Category: beauty institutes
Unwanted adverse effects
When cosmetic products trigger allergies and intolerances often the ingredients are the troublemakers. Frequently overlooked are essential (co-)factors such as the individual skin constitution, random exogenous impacts, inappropriate preparations, too much or too many skin care products and, last but not least, the psychological make-up. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2016 (7), 50-55
Category: beauty institutes
Skin structure and skin care requirements - From past to future
For a long time in human cultural development, cosmetics and medicine had been considered as one discipline. About 150 years ago, with the onset of industrialisation, the influence of natural science and the identification, isolation and big scale production of chemicals and ingredients, the separation into individual disciplines became apparent. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2016 (8), 10-15
Flavones and isoflavones - the all-rounders among active agents
With their broad range of applications multifunctional active agents are particularly interesting for skin care. Besides vitamins, polyphenols have a large potential. Their most prominent representatives are flavones and isoflavones. published in Kosmetik International 2016 (10), 62-65
Category: special actives
Contact dermatoses - causes, prevention and professional care of irritated skin
Contact dermatoses occur at the workplace but also during leisure time. What people tend to call allergy actually more often turns out to be an irritation. Prevalence varies and depends on a multitude of different factors. If the persons concerned know about preventive measures and how to apply them or know about the measures to take whenever symptoms strike, the associated problems can be largely minimized. published in Kosmetik International 2016 (10), 18-21
Sound base - pharmaceutical and cosmetic base creams
The treatment of medical indications and cosmetic skin problems depends on how diagnosis and skin analysis are translated into an adequate therapy with appropriate preparations. Beneficial here are base creams that allow extemporaneous preparations. published in medical Beauty Forum 2016 (5), 12-17
Keep your eyes open - eye problem assistance
Sleepy eyes are hardly attractive, the more so as reduced lacrimation and an increased dehydration of the surrounding skin areas often are accompanying symptoms. Which cosmetic products are beneficial in this case? published in Beauty Forum 2016 (10), 40-42
Antimicrobial peptides
Acids and barrier lipids of the stratum corneum (horny layer) are the skin's first line of defence against infections. However, they also are the basis for a typical microbial colonisation (skin flora). The skin flora contains harmless but also facultative pathogenic germs. Peptide structures neutralise these pathogenic but also exogenous germs when they attempt to penetrate into the skin. published in Kosmetik International 2016 (6), 28-31
Category: special actives
Triclosan - partial ban, widely used
The antimicrobial chemical used as a preservative in cosmetic products has been criticized for a long time already. Our expert explains why and gives an update on the current legal situation. published in Beauty Forum 2016 (5), 92-94
So small and subtle - nanoparticles from solid to liquid
The ingredients of nanodispersions can partly replace pharmaceutical active agents - often with the same efficiency.1 Hence they are ideal base substances for cosmeceuticals.2 published in medical Beauty Forum 2016 (2), 12-16
Category: special actives
Saponins in skin care
Saponins are one of the most diversified substance classes in nature. Quite a number of saponins already have a long tradition of practical application and are well-known from folk medicine. The following article covers the different structures and effects of saponins. published in medical Beauty Forum 2016 (1), 12-16
Category: special actives
Antioxidants and radical scavengers - too much is too much
Antioxidants and radical scavengers belong to the most common components of anti-aging preparations. The trend towards appropriate food supplements and cosmeceuticals still continues. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2015 (8), 12-16
Category: special actives
Cosmetic studies
The trend in cosmetics goes towards highly effective active agents. Since the Cosmetic Directive demands for safe cosmetic preparations that are free of adverse effects, there is need for comprehensive quality control and validation of the products. A selection of quality control procedures is described in the following. published in Kosmetik & Pflege 2015 (5), 24-25
Bioengineering of the skin - combo makes the difference
More and more beauty institutes use devices and equipment to optimize their skin care treatments. It also is a fact that most of the device-assisted techniques are inconceivable without the appropriate preparations. published in medical Beauty Forum 2015 (6), 42-45
Category: beauty institutes
Aluminium - a much-discussed element 1
For some time past there has been much discussion on aluminium containing antiperspirants and deodorants. Many of us are not aware that aluminium also is a component of hygiene products and many other cosmetic preparations and that it is ubiquitous in our environment - literally wherever we go. published in Beauty Forum 2015 (12), 56-58
Retinoids and their use in cosmetics
Although already veterans among the cosmetic active agents they are the number one active agents among the cosmeceuticals: retinoids. This naturally occurring substance class is omnipresent in our daily skin care, our medical drugs and our daily nutrition. published in Kosmetik International 2015 (11), 56-58
Category: special actives
Perioral dermatitis - causes, treatment and differentiation
Perioral dermatitis is a common problem, but the solution is not easy to find. Associated irritations are rather persistent and definitely an ordeal for the persons affected but also for cosmeticians. published inKosmetik International2015 (9),44-47
Cosmetic preparations with specific attributes
Although we live in a high-tech environment, the tendency towards spiritual thinking still is firmly established in human reasoning. The so released forces are apparent every day - just consider the global conflicts around religion and religious faith. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2015 (4), 36-39
Frankincense - the resin with healing power
Frankincense ("Boswellia") has become rather important in various cultures and religions: the resilience of the tree growing in the Asian and African semi deserts is legendary and the tribal knowledge on the mystic and healing powers of its resin fills entire libraries. Today's science still appreciates its specific properties. What is it that makes frankincense so valuable? published in medical Beauty Forum 2015 (4), 12-16
Category: special actives
Eight questions on sun protection
"What kind of sun cream would you recommend for me?" and "What is important when purchasing sun creams?" Your customers probably often ask such kind of questions during summer season. We have interviewed Dr Hans Lautenschläger on the effects and the ingredients of sun creams. So you are prepared for all kinds of questions on this issue. published in Beauty Forum 2015 (8), 36-37
Category: skin protection
Asking the expert: Any potent active agents to treat excessive sweating?
Persons with hyperhidrosis certainly have already tested the one or other active agent. We interviewed Dr. Hans Lautenschläger on profuse sweating, on potential natural compounds and the pros and cons of aluminium free deodorants. published in Beauty Forum 2015 (6), 58-60
Category: special actives
Approved skin lightener - tranexamic acid is effective against pigmented spots and redness
In the medical field, tranexamic acid is a reliable haemostatic agent during surgery and in the case of accidental injuries. In medical cosmetics, tranexamic acid is used for skin treatments: already small amounts can bleach pigmented spots and reduce redness - also in combination with instrument-based techniques. published in medical Beauty Forum 2015 (3), 12-14
Category: special actives
Acne - the potentials of cosmetic prevention
Acne does not only appear during adolescence but can also be constant companion of adults. Cosmetic preparations can help in getting a grip on it. published in Beauty Forum 2015 (2), 88-91
Overdoing skin care - too much of a good thing
Do you know the typical disease of female flight attendants? Well, it's a rash that develops due to exaggerated skin care! The protective shell of the body suffers with insufficient skin care but obviously also with too much skin care. published in Kosmetik International 2015 (3), 22-25
Skin care before and after surgery
Adjuvant skin care plays a significant role in the context of aesthetic surgery. Adequately administered it helps accelerate the recovery process, discontinue pharmaceutical medication at an earlier stage and has a lasting positive effect on the surgery results. published inmedical Beauty Forum2015 (1), 34-37
Don't take risks! - Skin protection in beauty institutes
Manual work, mechanical strain and the contact with various substances: if these characteristics are typical for your workplace, you are more likely to suffer from skin reactions and dermatoses. Protect yourself! published inKosmetik International2015 (1), 36-38
Category: skin protection
Lip care insights - well-tried and new lip care tips
Soft, smooth and glossy: healthy lips are quite attractive. That is why wax and pigment containing preparations and sticks have become an integral part of the cosmetic skin care routine. Some of the lip care preparations have hardly changed over time, which is quite amazing, while others have been added as a result of recent scientific research. published in medical Beauty Forum 2014 (6), 18-20
Alkaloids in cosmetic applications
Hot and spicy, reviving or even intoxicating - we are talking of alkaloids. If you now think of nicotine, caffeine or cocaine in this context, you are quite right. However, the family of alkaloids is more diverse and also makes a significant component in skin care preparations. published in Kosmetik International 2014 (12), 22-25
Category: special actives
Vitamins in cosmetics
While many other cosmetic active agents experience their ups and downs, vitamins continue to be in vogue. They are essential components of natural and of physiological cosmetics. published inBeauty Forum2014 (10), 18-21 and (11), 38-40 and (12), 34-36
Update ofmedical Beauty Forum2011 (1), 14-16 and 2011 (2), 16-18
Category: special actives
Flawless skin - active agents and active agent systems
A radiant complexion is the beauty ideal per se. Light or dark spots are annoying and can be quite a nuisance if they are well-marked. The cosmetic sector offers a large variety of active agents to take remedial action. published inmedical Beauty Forum2014 (5), 32-35
Category: special actives
Waxes - an indispensable family
What comes into your mind when you hear the term waxes? Maybe beeswax, candle wax or floor wax? It may not sound familiar in a cosmetic context but waxes are more common in cosmetics than you might think. published in Kosmetik International 2014 (10), 52-56
All made of sugar - Glycosides in skin care products
What does a lump of sugar have in common with hyaluronic acid, algae extract or the so-called AGE deposits in atrophic skin? They all belong to the family of glycosides - a substance class that can be found in a whole variety of cosmetic preparations. published in Kosmetik International 2014 (9), 24-26
Category: special actives
Highly effective - Cosmeceuticals
When can we or should we speak of cosmeceuticals or to put it another way, cosmetic ingredients with pharmaceutical effects? Cosmetologists and lawyers assiduously discuss the matter. Read more on the respective criteria and on the substances and applications that act as the model for cosmeceuticals. published inmedical Beauty Forum2014 (4), 16-18
Phospholipids - the all-rounders
What does an element like phosphorus that rather is associated with the match industry have to do with skin and cosmetics? As a matter of fact, most of the processes in which the substance is involved take place without becoming aware of them. It is not exaggerating to say that phosphorus and phospholipids are absolutely vital for life. published inmedical Beauty Forum2014 (3), 18-20
Category: special actives
Vitamins in cosmetic products - just additives or added benefit as well?
Vitamins belong to the most frequent components in cosmetic products. With their positive image they always are useful for marketing purposes - even when added to a rinse-off product where they will not remain on the skin. By the same token, specific vitamin-containing products are beneficial in the treatment of various skin conditions. The survey informs on the use and treatments with vitamins. published inKosmetik & Pflege2014 (2), 40-41
Category: special actives
Careful with washing! - Gentle skin care for babies and small children
The epidermis of children up to 3 years is relatively thin, shows minimal sweat and sebum production, has an increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and is sensitive. Recommendations for the care of the infant skin are compiled in the following article. published in Kosmetik International 2014 (5), 16-19
Sun protection products - appropriate use
More and more day care creams are equipped with UV filters. While the production of sun filters skyrockets therewith, the endocrinal efficacy of some filters is being disussed by experts. Information on the state of the art and the most efficient way of protecting against sun radiation is compiled in the following. published in medical Beauty Forum 2014 (2), 16-18 and Beauty Forum 2015 (2), 64-67
Facets of intimate care - less is more
Intimate care always has been and will continue to be a domain of women. Obviously there is a solution for any kind of problem. However not all the products offered on the cosmetic market will automatically contribute to the individual wellbeing. published inmedical Beauty Forum2014 (2), 35-37
The water balance in our skin: moisturizers & Co.
The term moisturizing cream has different meanings according to whether we are in the English-speaking world or the German-speaking part. Two terms are essential in this context: moisturizers and emollients. Information on common features and on the way how they influence the water balance of the skin is provided in the following. published inmedical Beauty Forum2014 (1), 18-20
Category: special actives
Extinguishing the flames - anti-inflammatory active agents
If we speak of anti-inflammatory active agents in the cosmetic field, we predominantly deal with a prevention of local irritations caused by contact with everyday substances, micro-organisms or by mechanical stress or micro lesions. Accordingly, it is not a matter of a therapeutic use of active agents to treat the neurodermitic skin, serious acne vulgaris or acute psoriasis. Nevertheless, also in cases of a disposition to inflammatory skin reactions it is important to select the adequate skin care. published inKosmetik International2014 (2), 26-29
Category: special actives
Skin care at strong sweat formation*
Sweat glands are high-performance glands. They become active when the body's surface temperature needs to be cooled down, or in other words, whenever the body temperature rises and the temperature has to be dissipated quickly, or if the heat dissipation of the body is not sufficiently ensured in the case of high outdoor temperatures. In both cases the high evaporative cooling of water is utilized - only 1 g of sweat (about 99 % of water) eliminates about 600 calories out of the body surface and the surrounding air during evaporation. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2014 (7), 32-35
Repairing the barrier - on active agents and active agent systems to support the skin regeneration
For a long time, the term skin regeneration has been used with reserve only since it insinuates a healing effect that legally is not allowed for advertising purposes. In the final analysis, the term "regeneration" originates from medicine and resumes, in a nutshell, the regenerating cell biological processes. published inmedical Beauty Forum2013 (5), 18-20
Shave that beard! - Skin care before and after shavings
There are many ways to get rid of unwanted hair on various parts of the body. How does the skin react to the different techniques? What can be done to avoid or sooth irritations? published inKosmetik International2013 (10), 22-25
Skin whitening agents from A to Z - a summary
When you cut an apple and leave it uncovered, it will quickly turn brown. This brown colouring originates from the oxidation of the polyphenols of the apple with atmospheric oxygen assisted by the enzyme phenoloxidase. Lemon juice with its high content of antioxidant vitamin C can impede this reaction. published in Kosmetik International 2013 (9), 22-28
Category: special actives
Biodegradable lamellar systems in skin care, skin protection and dermatology
ABSTRACT: The following review comprises background, literature and applications of biodegradable lamellar systems, their characteristics and limitations. The article is focussed on phosphatidylcholine containing preparations like liposomes, nanodispersions and derma membrane structure. published inSOFW-Journal139 (8), 2-8 (2013)
Category: special actives
Antioxidants - an overview
During the past years, no other active agent class has attracted more attention as a cosmetic ingredient than the group of antioxidants with their radical scavenging properties. Now it is time to draw the balance and compile an orientation guide as to the large variety of active agents. published inKosmetik International2013 (8), 12-15
Category: special actives
Protecting the skin barrier - fungal infections and skin care
Pharmacy offers a multitude of highly efficient active agents for the treatment of fungal infections. Experience however has shown that without appropriate skin care the symptoms soon reappear after the antimycotic medication has been stopped. published inmedical Beauty Forum2013 (4), 48-50
Summary: Release and bioavailability
A key issue considering the efficacy of skin care products is the release of the active agents contained. In this respect, not only the concentrations but also the base formulations of creams, dispersions and solutions play an important part. The subsequent penetration into the horny layer depot, the passage into deeper skin layers and, where applicable, also the metabolization determine the dermal bioavailability of active agents in order to carry out their intended functions. published inKosmetik & Pflege2013 (1), 36-37 and (2), 38-39
Shady sides - manifestations of light dermatoses
Besides the well-known sun burns, sunlight also can trigger very annoying light dermatoses. Food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetic ingredients are potential influencing factors. Sometimes even preventive measures and medicine are of little help, all the more important is an adequate skin care. published in Kosmetik International 2013 (5), 32-35
Let it grow again - on actives and active systems to stimulate hair growth
Beautiful hair is considered as an expression of vitality. Yet, what can be done if a hormone-related hair loss strikes at an early age already? Since ages people have used tricks and tinctures to reactivate its growth - to no avail though. Now, there are new findings that may raise hope. published inmedical Beauty Forum2013 (2), 37-39
Category: special actives
Stratum corneum - from corneobiochemistry to corneotherapy
The epidermis is a dynamic system of continuous proliferation and differentiation. It mainly consists of keratinocytes, melanocytes and immune-competent cells. The stratum corneum, the uppermost layer of the epidermis is of major significance for the barrier function of the skin. The barrier is formed of keratinized skin cells (corneocytes) which are embedded into a matrix of multiple lamellar lipid layers. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2013 (1), 14-19
Piggyback - an overview on transport systems
Speaking of transport systems for cosmetic active agents, we automatically think of tiny filled spherical bodies that wriggle their way through the gaps between the corneocytes and then empty their load in the deeper layer of the epidermis. That is a good story though, but unfortunately not a true one. The following article will deal with the actual facts. published in medical Beauty Forum 2013 (1), 16-18
A focus on nerves - on intended and adverse effects
In our private and professional life, we come across quite a few things that literally get on our nerves and also under our skin in the true sense of the word. We feel how we break into perspiration, how we blush or turn pale. Also cosmetic products have an effect on our nerves. published inKosmetik International2013 (2), 40-42
Category: special actives
Elastase - the target of a novel anti-aging strategy to defy skin aging, loss of skin elasticity and wrinkle formation
In the skin, the epidermal stem cells are responsible for the formation and regeneration of all the different cells in the epidermis. Since the skin progressively differentiates and regenerates, the epidermal stem cells are the most important skin cells in charge of the epidermal homeostasis, of the regeneration of the elastin and collagen fibres as well as the regeneration of the skin barrier. With aging, the number of epidermal stem cells decreases and accordingly also the capacity of the skin to regenerate with the consequence that barrier disorders develop, hydration and elasticity of the skin are reduced and wrinkles will form. The skin elasticity is influenced by the quality and quantity of elastin and collagen fibrils. published inÄsthetische Dermatologie (mdm)2012 (6), 38-40
No crinkle-look - an arsenal of anti-wrinkle agents at choice
There may be regrets though that those characteristic faces furrowed with wrinkles and deep lines are less common today. However, media and commercials talk us into a concept of beauty that lays emphasis on smooth skin. What can you do to preserve the skin smooth and supple? published in Kosmetik International 2012 (11), 22-25
Category: special actives
Landing approach - preparing for the final descent - skincare for pregnant women
When the stork has announced his arrival, the furnishing of the apartment, the daily routine and the baby equipment need to be organized. Also the skin care should be adapted to the new situation. published in Kosmetik International 2012 (10), 26-29
Food intolerance - when food irritates the skin
Itching skin or skin rash - who would think that the daily diet can trigger the symptoms? Not only the substances that get in contact with the skin but also orally ingested substances may cause skin reactions. What can be done? published inmedical Beauty Forum 2012 (4), 18-20
Skin - from the outside in
Keeping the skin's barrier in good health could be the key to optimal skincare according to the team at dermaviduals. Lizzy Wood reports. published inCosmetic Surgery & Beauty Magazine2012 (57), 217
Treatment of problem skins - an overview
If you start out to renovate a building you should begin with the roof. In terms of the problem skin, first priority should be given to the skin barrier. Next step then is the renovation or in other words the recovery of the skin. Which active agents are appropriate in this case? The following article will provide assistance. published in Kosmetik International 2012 (8), 16-19
Skin care during cancer therapy
When customers undergo cancer treatment also the skin condition is affected. Problems and side effects of cancer therapies can be attenuated with an adequate skin care. published inKosmetik International2012 (5), 18-21
Growth factors - the body's own peptides control various cell functions
Peptides have become a topic of intense biochemical research since they control a multitude of regulatory functions in the body. Also the growth factors are an object of research since they regulate the development of young organisms and initiate repair mechanisms and healing processes in the later course of life. It's not surprising though that they are also in the focus of cosmetics. published inmedical Beauty Forum2012 (2), 16-18
Category: special actives
Powders, gels, creams & sticks - Routes of administration
Cosmetic products often have rather imaginative names and sometimes even propose riddles to the consumers. In other words, a so-called gel may prove to be no gel at all in the technological sense of the term. The main characteristics of the different routes of administration are described in the following. published in Beauty Forum 2012 (4), 54-56 & 2012 (5), 54-56
Corneotherapy
The future of skincare has arrived. published inbeauty nz2012 (2-3), 39-40
Skin care for the vitiligo-affected skin - aspirations and reality
Vitiligo is a rather conspicuous skin disease since the respective skin areas have completely lost their pigmentation. Although, the causes of the disease still are largely unidentified, there is help available for the patients concerned in the form of adequate skin care products and active agents. published inmedical Beauty Forum2012 (1), 18-21
Without carriers only modest effects - Functions and effects of carriers in cosmetic products
When we talk about carriers in cosmetic products we need to distinguish between particular chemically defined substances and physical carrier bodies. In conclusion, both alternatives have the same effects: combined with active agents they increase the bioavailability. An enhanced bioavailability requires in-depth knowledge on the physiological processes in the skin and strictly contrasts with the idea of "a lot helps a lot!" published inKosmetik & Pflege2012 (1), 25-27
Vitamins in cosmetics
While many other cosmetic active agents experience their ups and downs, vitamins continue to be in vogue. They are essential components of natural and of physiological cosmetics. published inmedical Beauty Forum2011 (1), 14-16 and (2), 16-18
Category: special actives
Jars, tubes, dispensers etc - cosmetic packaging
The packaging of skin care products serves for product protection but also is intended to persuade people to buy. What particular functions and requirements are important for the packaging of cosmetic products? published inBeauty Forum2011 (10), 48-51
Benchmark skin measurements - a solid evidence
Measuring the skin before and after the treatment is a popular method to awaken consumer desire for skin care products. Also cosmeticians can convince their customers with facts and figures. published inKosmetik International2011 (8), 24-27
Trace elements - tiny helpers for a healthy life
They only occur in minute amounts in the human body. Nevertheless, a decline in trace element concentration causes severe deficiency symptoms. Read more about their function, effects and their significance in the cosmetic field in the following. published inKosmetische Praxis2011 (3), 13-15
Category: special actives
Little powerhouses - what hand creams should accomplish
The daily work takes its toll on our hands - especially through contact with specific substances. And, the efficacy of hand creams varies a lot - it all depends on the particular formulation. published inHand & Nails2011 (4), 12-14
Nanoparticles - sizing up skin care
I recently read an interesting article, passed to me by my Australian colleagues. It's a long way from Germany to Australia but the issues raised in the article "I'm as Mad as Hell....." by Danné, published in the Nov/Dec 2010 issue of Professional Beauty, resonated with me so strongly I felt obliged to put pen to paper. published inProfessional Beauty (Australia)2011 (4), 200-201
Category: special actives
Moisturizers for the skin care
The term moisturizer generally stands for moisturizing creams. The present overview will inform on components that influence the skin hydration. published inBeauty Forum2011 (3), 86-88 and2011 (4), 46-49
Category: special actives
Gentle products for soothing massages
Wellness and cosmetic treatments - both are unimaginable without massages! The customer longs for relaxation and expects the promised results. Professional competence is required here - and the appropriate media in form of creams, oils and gels. published inKosmetik International2011 (2), 36-40
Cellulite from A to Z
Exceptions prove the rule: the vast majority of women will develop cellulite some time in their life. The treatment of the annoying indentations has grown into a profitable branch of business within cosmetics. There are lots of promises but reality frequently is different. The following overview shows what can be done and what actually is impossible. published inKosmetische Praxis2011 (1), 10-13 and2011 (2), 10-12
Layer per layer - the structure of the skin
The skin is a complicated and highly efficient organ which protects our body and adds to its attractiveness. It is also barrier and intermediate station for outgoing and incoming substances. In general, we are not aware of what it can actually achieve. If the functions of the skin are impaired, however, it can become quite uncomfortable. published inBeauty Forum2011 (2), 88-91
Silicon - the global player in cosmetics
As a cosmetic agent, the element silicon plays a wallflower role: only at the first glance, though. As a matter of fact, the semi-metal is insignificant as an active agent. However, organic silicon additives and inorganic silicates are widely used in cosmetic products. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2010 (6), 12-15
A comparison - pharmaceutical and cosmetic active agents
Medical drugs or cosmetics? Once the cosmetician realizes, that a skin condition demands more professional competency than she can provide in her institute, she recommends visiting a dermatologist. We compare pharmaceutical and cosmetic active agents. published inKosmetik International2010 (10), 32-36
Category: special actives
From soap to high-tech emulsifiers
There are two basic needs that are as old as mankind - hygiene and skin care. Both of them deal with the transport of lipid substances. In order to work most effectively while being gentle on the skin, modern cosmetic products make use of powerful tensides and emulsifiers. Recent emulsifying systems even are oriented towards biological structures. published in Beauty Forum 2010 (11), 20-22
On substances that release emotions - a tour across the world of perfumes
Scents and fragrances are part of our daily life to the point that we often have become oblivious of them. But we unknowingly react to them. Tiny chemical molecules signalize messages with major psychological effects. published inKosmetische Praxis2010 (5), 10-14
Radio waves and boswellia nanoparticles - a new derma rejuvenation therapy
Considerations on skin physiology and skin aging from the biochemical point of view published inÄsthetische Dermatologie (mdm)2010 (4), 18-25
Sensitive skin - identifying symptoms and causes
Besides the fact that simple causes often have major consequences for the skin, cosmetic practices are also confronted with complex issues when it comes to sensitive skin. Identifying the complex problem is a major prerequisite for a causal and successful cosmetic treatment. published in Beauty Forum 2010 (9), 32-34
Acids and bases from A to Z
Acids somehow have a spectacular image in skin care. They either have caustic effects in the true sense of the word or they are the magic cure for a beautiful skin per se. Bases, as their counterparts, only live a wallflower existence as neutralizers. Details and backgrounds are covered in the following article. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2010 (4), 13-15
Crossing borders - on the boundaries of cosmetic skin care
There is only a smooth transition from problem skin to pathological skin conditions. Although it is not the job of professional cosmeticians to diagnose skin diseases, it is essential to know the borderlines. Otherwise there is a risk of getting into conflict with health legislation. published inBeauty Forum2010 (8), 27-29
Corneotherapeutic skin care for the rosacea skin
Rosacea predominantly affects fair-skinned people and develops in adult age. Characteristic symptoms are erythema, changes of the superficial blood vessels and connective tissue as well as enlarged sebum follicles. Frequently there are also oedema and pustules to observe. In addition, there is a whole variety of special forms of rosacea. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2010 (3), 16-20
Ubiquitous like sand on the beaches: silicon and its compounds
As a cosmetic agent, silicon plays a wallflower role. Only at the first glance, though: its salts and organic compounds are used in many applications, as e.g. masks, packs or hair care products. published inKosmetik International2010 (7), 28-30
Using synergies - How active agents and cream bases interlink cosmetics and pharmacy
No doubt - the grey area between pharmaceutical and cosmetic skin care products is expanding. Dermaceuticals and dermocosmetics are keywords which demonstrate that the cosmetic product market is gaining grounds in the pharmaceutical field, not least because of legal claims for a proof of efficiency published in Kosmetische Praxis 2010 (3), 10-12
Eye care basics - on active agents and eye formulations
Besides language and gestures also our eyes play a significant role in communication. Expressive eyes can be the decisive factor in determining sympathy and appeal. That is why the preventive cosmetic care of the eye area is of particular importance. published in Beauty Forum 2010 (6), 66-68
Fragrance sample? Aldehydes and ketones
Formaldehyde and acetone are immediately associated with nail hardeners and nail enamel remover. In chemical terms, these substances belong to the substance class of aldehydes and ketones - which are well-known molecules in cosmetic products like e.g. preservatives, perfumes or essential oils. published inKosmetik International2010 (5), 42-44
Sun protection: on the efficiency of UV filters
Whenever the skin is exposed to bright sunlight, the natural protective mechanisms of the skin will no longer be sufficient. Sun protection creams are inevitable in order to protect the skin against the negative effects of UV radiation. How do the UV filters in sun protection creams work and how efficient are they actually? published inKosmetische Praxis2010 (2), 10-13
Category: skin protection
Fragrances, vitamins and hormones - the ABC of terpenes
They are a main component of natural essential oils - terpenes. The chemical compounds are primarily used as aromatic or flavoring substances in perfumes and cosmetics. Yet, they are also major intermediate products of the human metabolism. published inBeauty Forum2010 (3), 56-58
Category: special actives
From biochemistry - the ABC of steroids
Steroids can be found in food and skin care products, in pharmaceutical drugs and last but not least even in our own body. They have effects on heart and blood circulation, fat metabolism, sexuality and skin condition. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2010 (1), 10-13
Category: special actives
Versatile use - alcohols in skin care products
What do you understand by the term alcohol or alcohols? What are the functions associated with it? Imagining cosmetic products without this substance class is almost impossible, except for powders. published inKosmetische Praxis2009 (6), 13-15
The ABC of fatty acids
We come into contact with fatty acids day in, day out as they are elements of our daily nutrition and skin care. Already the syllable „fat" reminds us of calories and even more disagreeable is the idea of something like "acids". Fatty acids have more influence on our health than we generally assume, though. Their metabolic products control a multitude of functions in our body and in the skin. published inBeauty Forum2009 (12), 40-47
Category: special actives
Denatured!!? - Use pure alcohol!
Legislative authorities suspiciously regulate and survey the use of alcohol, even in cosmetic products. Both quality and safety of skin care products do not benefit from this policy. published inKosmetik International2009 (12), 28-30
Hormone cycles - menopause skin care
We cannot live without hormones. They influence our bodily functions, physical capacity and moods from birth to old age. We are particularly sensible of their effect during menopause. published in Kosmetik International Best Ager 2009, 26-28
Enhanced skin structure through innovative anti-aging treatment with Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and boswellia nanoparticles
[IPL-activated boswellia-(frankincense-)Triterpenes] published inÄsthetische Dermatologie (mdm)2009 (4), 28-33
Denaturants in cosmetic products - health is secondary
Concerning the ingredients of cosmetic products their purity is essential. The fact that the products may also contain additives that are mandatory, have nothing to do with skin care and may even cause counterproductive effects is discussed in the following paper. published inKosmetische Praxis2009 (5), 10-13
Skin care for the adolescent skin
During adolescence teenagers increasingly pay attention to their outer appearance and frequently take a look in the mirror. Blemished skin often becomes a problem. Acne, perspiration etc. wreck their nerves. What can be done when the skin goes haywire, particularly at this time when everyone is focused on impressing the opposite sex? published inKosmetik International2009 (10), 20-23
Skin care for psoriasis skin - individually adapted
Every problem skin requires a skin care which is optimally adapted to the individual patient, particularly during non-acute conditions or periods free of complaints. Preventive care may help reduce the stress for psoriasis- affected persons. published inBeauty Forum2009 (10), 48-51
Laser- & IPL treatments - the appropriate skin care
The use of lasers in the cosmetic and dermatological treatment has become increasingly popular in recent years. Experience has shown that preparative steps before the treatment and an adequate follow-up care are of vital importance in order to achieve optimal results. published inBeauty Forum2009 (9), 70-72
(Poly)Saccharides in cosmetic products - From alginate to xanthan gum
Polysaccharides are omnipresent ingredients of cosmetics. They do an absolutely reliable job in silence and far away from the all-too-fleeting active agents and that is why we are no longer aware of them. How important they really are and where they are actually used is explained in the following survey. published inKosmetische Praxis2009 (4), 12-15
Mechanical, chemical, enzymatic - peelings for every type of skin
No matter whether salt, sand or acid based: peelings are used to stimulate the skin recovery and to restore a youthful appearance. The cosmetician today has various techniques at her disposal to achieve these goals. published inBeauty Forum2009 (7), 56-58
Omnipresent and multifunctional - amino acids in skin care
Amino acids are indispensable from the vegetable and animal kingdom including men through to microorganisms like bacteria, fungi and viruses. There is no life on earth without these basic elements. Why and which specific amino acids are vital for the human skin is described in the following. published inKosmetische Praxis2009 (3), 15-17
Category: special actives
"I cannot tolerate this product" - the influence of medical drugs on skin and skin care
Again and again beauty institutes and practices are confronted with spontaneous or chronic skin reactions. As a rule, the skin care used is then suspected to be the culprit. Frequently it is wrongly accused, as there are various other factors that play a significant role - as for instance medical drugs. published inKosmetische Praxis2009 (2), 11-14
Polyethylene glycols & Co - On effects and side effects
Besides water and oils hardly any other substance group is as widely used in skin care products and dermatics as polyethylene glycols and their related substances. Interesting things to know are compiled in the following article. published inKosmetische Praxis2009 (1), 12-15
Nanoparticles in cosmetic products - good or bad?
New developments create anxieties and raise questions. First and foremost because it lacks information and experience. Frequently hearsay is the only source of information available. Nanoparticles are not the same kind of quantum leap as the first steam locomotives were, though. The following article will bring some light into the darkness around the small particles. published inBeauty Forum2009 (5), 44-47
Category: special actives
The Use of Liposomes from Soya Phospholipids in Cosmetics
This article shows that on the one hand the development of the liposomes technology offers great chances for many new cosmetic products (which are very desirable from the consumer's point of view), but that on the other hand the cosmetics developer has to deal very intensively with questions of raw material selection, characterization of raw and finished products as well as the question about the biological fate of his formulations, in order to avoid risks. In this connection, soya phospholipids in the form of liposomes have much to recommend them, in view of their wide spectrum of activity and the decades of experience with these natural raw materials in food and pharmaceuticals. published inSeifen, Öle, Fette, Wachse114 (14), 531-534 (1988)
Category: special actives
Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part II
In Part I, some theoretical background on the structure of liposomes and their probable mechanisms of action on and in the skin were reviewed. Part II will discuss in more detail the utilization of liposomes in dermatological and cosmetic formulations. Appropriate uses are suggested, and some practical limits pointed out. published inCosmetics & Toiletries105 (7), 63-72 (1990)
Category: special actives
Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part I
Liposomes or liposomal aggregation may have played a role in the formation of the first cell membrane on Earth. Immediately after the discovery of liposomes by Bangham, there was intense research in the pharmaceutical industry concerning their parenteral application, but without a decisive breakthrough. It was only with the success of the first liposomal cosmetic called "Capture" that it became evident that the possibilities for the application of artificial vesicles could be achieved in practice in the market place. published inCosmetics & Toiletries105 (5), 89-96 (1990)
Category: special actives
Electron-microscopical Detection of Liposomes in a Skin Treatment Gel
This study is an example for the quality control of a liposomal skin care gel and shows the compatibility of liposomes based on soya phospholipids with a gel forming agent of the xanthan type. The analysis described allows imaging of liposomes in their surroundings and demonstrates that the preparation is correct as far as formulation is concerned. published inSeifen, Öle, Fette, Wachse115 (3), 88-89 (1989)
Category: special actives
Comments concerning the legal framework for the use of liposomes in cosmetic preparations
Concerning cosmetics the same application criteria are valid for liposome formulations as for other comparable forms of application. The advertising claims for a deep acting liposome preparation must not be extended into the »drug« field. The argumentation becomes much simpler if highly unsaturated natural phospholipids are employed as raw material for the liposomes. published inSeifen, Öle, Fette, Wachse114 (18), 761-762 (1988)
Category: special actives
Vegetable oils
Vegetable oils are the oldest known skin care products. Yet they are important as ever. Find out more about the manifold and interesting features of this substance group in the following. published inKosmetik International2009 (1), 16-18
Let's have a look at your feet... Well-cared feet walk better!
Pedicure tends to be neglected in young age. Wrongfully - since preventive care is a significant factor to be a good walker also in later years. The following survey describes which specific products and what kind of treatment play a role in this context. published inKosmetische Praxis2008 (6), 14-16
Delicate children skin - criteria for the adequate skin care
Cosmetic products usually are developed for adults. Thus customers often are not sure which product may be used for children or baby skin. Not every product is appropriate - specifically if it contains substances that are inadequate or overdosed for children skin. published inKosmetik International2008 (12), 30-32
Ultrasound gels - effects, compositions, applications
Ultrasound applications have found their way into the standard repertoire of cosmetic treatments. What is the role of ultrasound gels in this context? published inBeauty Forum2008 (12), 50-52
Hyaluronic acid - a legendary agent
Hyaluronic acid is a legendary agent in the true sense of the word and it is almost impossible to imagine basic skin care and the treatment of wrinkles and dry eye syndrome without it. However where there is light there is also shadow and more and more treatment procedures with hyaluronic acid become known that rather belong into the category of wheeling and dealing than into scientifically based concepts. Read more about this agent in the following. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2008 (4), 16-18
Category: special actives
Beauty products for men - which products are useful?
Advertising campaigns for men's cosmetics have now come to fruition - the market already expects a double-digit growth rate. In the following find out more about the beauty products HE really needs. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2008 (5), 8-10
Lasting effect? Tendencies in anti-aging treatments
Wrinkles - now customers can well do without these and that is the reason why they willingly buy the promoted anti-aging skin care products on the market. Aim of these products however should be the effective prevention of the skin aging process. According to Dr. Hans Lautenschläger empty words or short-lived agents only are not enough. published inKosmetik International2008 (9), 47-50
Stressed skin - itching & Co. - causes and remedies
Rather unpleasant phenomenon: unbearable itching combined with erythema. Whether it is an insect bite or nettle rash after the contact with certain plants, the urge to scratch is specifically unpleasant at night times, and in public it even implies poor hygienic conditions and parasites. Occasionally the skin is irritated but the irritation cannot be localized and scratching is no relief. The following survey deals with causes and cosmetic remedies. published inBeauty Forum2008 (10), 106-108
Skin reactions - cosmetics and their effects
The ingredients of skin care products may cause inflammatory processes in the skin under certain conditions. On the other hand there are also cosmetic components which may effectively impede inflammatory processes. In the following survey the contrary ingredients are exemplarily compared with each other. published inBeauty Forum2008 (9), 114-116
Scars - cosmetic prevention and skin care
Scars are a frequent topic in beauty institutes. So far cosmetic only has focused on decorative and concealing products. However, recently developed new agents and bases have considerably improved cosmetic treatment methods. published inKosmetik International2008 (8), 36-38
Skin care during radiotherapy - soothing, vitalizing and protecting
Cancer therapies usually involve quite negative side effects and radiotherapy affects the skin in both ways: from the outside when it was used as a passageway for radiation and from the inside when the skin reacts to scattered radiation. How can skin care measures contribute to minimize the negative effects of the therapy? What kind of preventive measures are available? published inBeauty Forum2008 (8), 32-34
Eye care products - ingredients and effects
Our eyes are like business cards for our internal frame of mind. Sadness, happiness, curiosity and almost every personal feeling can be read in our eyes and hence is communicated to our fellow human beings. Reasons enough to pay special care to our eyes and the eye area. This will keep them in optimal shape until we attain old age. published inKosmetische Praxis2008 (3), 12-15
Skin elasticity - what can cosmetics achieve?
To keep the skin smooth and free of wrinkles for as long as possible is the main objective of preventive skin care. Besides hydration and smoothing, skin elasticity is the other essential factor where all depends on. Based on selected examples the following article explains potential influences on skin elasticity and how it can be optimally preserved. published inBeauty Forum2008 (5), 66-69
Fats and oils in cosmetics - Mother Nature versus petrochemicals? (long version)
Fats and oils are important ingredients of skin care. The properties of hydrocarbons and silicones are compared with vegetable and synthetic triglycerides. The influences on skin recovery and long term effects are described. The present literature is reviewed from the physiological point of view. published inKosmetische Medizin2008 (2), 76-80
Category: skin protection
Dazzlingly beautiful lips: lip care - ingredients and effects
Lips and eyes communicate charisma and charm and that is the reason why particular attention is paid to their care. Since the characteristics of the lip area are inherently different from the other facial skin we also use specific care products. What are the ingredients and how do they work? published inKosmetische Praxis2008 (2), 10-11
Oils and fats in cosmetic products - Mother Nature contra petrochemical industry?
A subject that has launched controversial discussions over and over again is the use of mineral oil based hydrocarbons in cosmetic products. Above all in the cold season it gains importance as the skin is sensitive to cold and dry air and should therefore be protected with re-fattening substances. Where is the difference between oils and waxes of petrochemical origin and natural fats and oils? published inBeauty Forum2008 (3), 102-106
Category: skin protection
Shelf life of cosmetics - what makes cosmetic products unstable?
Cosmetic products have a life of their own, all the more the higher the content of physiologically usable skin care substances. Also external influences have to be considered specifically when the products are bottled in jars. In the end, a mix of different influences determines the shelf life of the products. The following article will provide an overview on this issue. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2008 (1), 12-14
Dermopharmacy - decorative cosmetics for problem skin
Decorative cosmetics still leads a shadowy existence in many pharmacies. Wrongfully - as it is desperately needed specifically in the problem skin area in order to reduce the psychological strain of the individuals concerned. The following article describes preparations which form a valuable supplement in the pharmacies' shelves in combination with active care products and a well-founded professional advice. published in Pharmazeutische Zeitung 2008 (8), 28-30
Self-tanning products - a beautiful sun-tan without sun
While fair skin is the ideal of beauty in many countries of the world, the average central-European population rather prefers a tanned complexion. It stands for the idea of a healthy and active life style. As UV radiation however is related to the well-known consequences like premature skin aging and the risk of melanoma, self tanning products have become very popular. An overview on the pros and cons of the different product categories can be found in the following. published inKosmetische Praxis2007 (6), 8-10
Skin diagnosis - based on measuring results
The precise diagnosis of the skin condition is essential for a successful cosmetic treatment as even the best product will be useless if it is not matched with the skin type of the customer. published inKosmetik International2007 (10), 54-56
Medical Wellness - a powerful combination
Cosmetics - medicine - wellness: an increasing number of intersections and overlappings can be noticed between these disciplines. Cosmetics is spreading its activities into the boundaries of medicine. The field of "medical wellness" fills the gap between medicine and wellness and often has its roots in the traditional folk medicine of different cultures. The following paper explains the term "medical wellness" and describes how the field of cosmetics can play an active part. published inKosmetische Praxis2007 (5), 30-32
Peptides - more than transmitters and hormones
Peptides play a major role in the development of anti aging cosmetics. They occur naturally and are quite often found as messenger proteins and hormones. Also their degradation products, i.e. the amino acids are key players in the field of cosmetic skin care. published inKosmetik International2007 (9), 14-17
Category: special actives
Skin care for cosmeticians - new developments in skin care
The latest amendments in the German Cosmetic Directive (KVO) have shed some light on the ingredients of cosmetic products. As Dr. Hans Lautenschläger explained in his lecture held at the 5th Professional Training on Dermatology and Cosmetics in Munich, declarations regarding the ingredients (INCI) frequently are neglected when selecting a product. published in Kosmetische Praxis2000 (2), 30-33
Category: skin protection
Radical scavengers as active agents: facts, new aspects and future perspectives
In cosmetics as well as in medicine active agents against free radicals have ranked among the top-rated substances for quite some years. Every now and then there are new substances on the market which are even more effective in scavenging free radicals. How do radicals come into being, what are their effects and how dangerous are they actually? What is the difference between radicals and free radicals? Quite a few intricate questions which are not too easy to answer! published inKosmetische Praxis2006 (2), 12-14
Category: skin protection
Protect your skin too
Besides all the efforts of caring for the skin of the clients, the skin protection of the cosmeticians should not be neglected. Day in, day out, the cosmetician gets into contact with the products she uses for the treatments. High-quality products are useful which also protect the skin of the cosmetician. published inKosmetik International1999 (6), 114-116
Category: skin protection
Progress in occupational skin protection
The number of occupational dermatoses is increasing although the workplace safety regarding the materials and substances used has constantly been improved. Thus, skin protection at the workplace and an effective skin care become the focal point of interest. publishedin Symposium Medical (5), Juli 2001, S. 37;angepasst am 24.10.01
Category: skin protection
Nitrosamines in cosmetic products - risk of skin problems?
For quite some time now print media and radio stations have been informing that a multitude of cosmetic products contain carcinogenic nitrosamines. The reports are based on random sample results of some State Health Agencies in Germany. The point here is whether an already known problem has now become a burning issue again? The following article gives detailed information. published inKosmetische Praxis2006 (6),14-15
Category: skin protection
Skin protection for the hands of strong men
The acceptance of skin protection and skin care especially designed for activities in humid conditions (e.g. metal industry, construction industry, hairdressers) and workplaces where oils are used (e.g. oil industry, automotive industry, mechanical engineering) among the individuals affected is rather low. Especially in those fields where not really corrosive and acutely irritating or sensitizing materials are used but rather "everyday" substances, a large number of skin diseases has been diagnosed according to the statistics of the professional associations (1). published inPharm. Ztg.144 (13), 1038-1040 (1999)
Category: skin protection
Membrane-containing barrier creams - protecting the skin with skin-related substances
Skin care products should primarily support the protective function of the stratum corneum and, if needed, also assist in the recovery process. Accordingly these products should be called barrier creams; however this technical term rather is used in combination with skin protective products. The following report deals with today's barrier creams and their benefits for the modern skin care. published inKosmetische Praxis2006 (4), 12-14
Category: skin protection
Worth knowing - the cosmetician as a consultant
Specifically in cases of problem skin the cosmetician is predestined to offer comprehensive consultation on skin care and skin treatment after the skin is analyzed. Prerequisite here is detailed information on the products. published inKosmetik International2001 (7), 32-33
Category: beauty institutes
Product variety in the beauty institute
Offering a wide range of different products today has become the recipe for success of the beauty institute. Not only when establishing new beauty institutes but also in general it is recommended to carefully select the products for treatment and sale. published inKosmetik International2001 (8), 34-38
Category: beauty institutes
Preventive care in the beauty institute
The task of the cosmetician is not only to provide a short-term improvement of the skin but also to effectively support the prevention of skin diseases. published inKosmetik International2000 (3), 16-18
Category: beauty institutes
Cosmetic dermatology - dermatological cosmetic
The combination of cosmetic and dermatology offers a variety of opportunities/benefits for clients, patients and institutes/consulting rooms. The cosmetic dermatology or the dermatological cosmetic complements the fields of orthodox medicine and traditional cosmetic and extends their activity field. published inKosmetik International2000 (3), 114-118
Category: beauty institutes
Regeneration of the skin barrier
The objective of regenerating the skin is just as old as cosmetic itself. The decorative cosmetic shows how we would like to look after the regeneration. The caring cosmetic with the active agents at its disposal tries to support the regeneration to revitalize, soothe and protect the neglected, elderly and damaged skin. published inKosmetik International2000 (8), 100-103
Regeneration - the potentials of cosmetic products
In general usage, the term regeneration already is more or less identified with a magic formula against skin aging. Accordingly, there is a large variety of different prescriptions in form of products and treatments on the market. Quite evidently, the aging process of the skin cannot be stopped; however, prevention may contribute to alleviate its symptoms. published inBeauty Forum2003 (3), 72-74
Under close scrutiny - phytohormones
Hormones control our bodily functions throughout our entire life. They also have effects on our skin. As hormones have a systemic influence though, they are not allowed in cosmetic products. The research for substances with hormone-like effects proved successful in plants. Detailed information on these specific components which are called vegetable hormones or phytohormones will be provided in the following article. published inKosmetische Praxis2006 (1), 13-15
Corneotherapy and anti-aging
Corneotherapy was coined in the nineties by Professor A.M. Kligman. In his studies he proved that a skin therapy with moisturizers already could achieve clinical effects. Experience has shown now that corneotherapy can also protect the skin against premature aging. published inProfi Kosmetik2005 (8), 36-37
Applied corneotherapy and skin care - guidelines for the anti-aging treatment
Based on the corneotherapeutic treatment founded by Prof. A. Kligman a detailed strategy against premature skin aging is discussed. Specific elements of this strategy are the preservation of the NMF (moisture balance, protection against radicals) as well as the barrier layers, the protection against sun radiation and their consequences, the support of regenerative processes as well as reflections on the fatty acid balance of the skin. The individual care of damaged and problem skin is described in connection with appropriate base creams and corneotherapeutic actives. Treatment processes are accompanied by specific diagnostic techniques to determine the skin condition. The principle of extended "outside-in" therapy (extended corneotherapy) is explained and examples for temporarily effective anti-aging actives are added. published in Ästhetische Dermatologie (mdm) 2007 (3), 8-16
Universal base creams with membrane structure for skin care, skin protection and dermatics
Although the market offers a generous supply of finished products, base creams still play an essential role in pharmaceutical preparations for the individual dermatological treatment. On the contrary: symptoms of sensitive skin, neurodermatitis and a series of other skin problems which altogether are on a steady upward trend, even can be treated individually as the substances which are not tolerated can explicitly be avoided. Thus, the experience of the dermatologist and pharmacist involved can ideally be included in the treatment for the maximum benefit of the patient respectively customer. In addition to that, the knowledge that besides the dermatological and cosmetic active agents, the selected cream base is a deciding factor for a long-term success is increasingly gaining ground. published inÖsterreichische Apothekerzeitung56 (14), 679 (2002)
Self mixed
KOKO now offers foundations which are individually adapted to customers' needs. The modular system is easy to handle and does not require any specific practical knowledge. published inProfi Kosmetik2005 (6), 16
dermaviduals - modular product systems
Dermaviduals are skin care products which are freshly prepared right on the spot in the beauty institute. This article shows how cosmeticians can prove their skin care competence by offering this individual service. published inKosmetik International1999 (1), 104-106
Base creams for the prevention and treatment of atopic dermatitis
According to general considerations about corneotherapy (Albert M. Kligman) the chemical composition and the physical structure of base creams play a major role in supporting the homoeostasis of the skin. published inActa Dermatovenerol Croat2004; 12 (2), 132
Whitening - lightening the skin tone
Pigmentation marks, freckles and reddened skin are frequently felt as a nuisance. As only very few individuals however are endowed with an even skin tone, so called whitening products become increasingly popular. published inKosmetik International2004 (4), 45-47
Therapy and wellness in the bathtub
Bathing and balneological products already have a long tradition and still enjoy great popularity. Moreover: even in today's shower age, the wide range and the application of balneological products is still on the rise. published inPharm. Ztg.148 (3), 22-26 (2003)
Skin cleansing - selecting the appropriate product
Skin cleansing preparations range among the essential skin caring products. They are part of the daily hygiene and a prerequisite for further skin care measures. Hence, there is a great variety of different preparations and applications. The following overview offers assistance in selecting the appropriate product. published inKosmetische Praxis2004 (5), 8-10
Re-energizers: lotions - the speedy skin care
Lotions are speedy re-energizers for the skin. Especially when extended parts of the skin require a fast and evenly spreading care they are the best alternative. Nevertheless, lotions are not really a "lightweight" solution. published inKosmetik International2003 (3), 40-42
Perspiration and body odor - keeping the emotional smell under control
(Excessive) Perspiration together with the possibly developing body odor may be part of sporting activities, in company however it can be embarrassing. The cosmetic industry offers a wide range of products with antiperspirant and highly effective deodorant properties. published in Beauty Forum 2004 (4), 48-50
Oleogels - what non-aqueous products can accomplish
Today's skin care products mainly are emulsion-based which means that they contain water and an oil respectively lipid phase. In addition there are still products with only an oil phase. Oils but also oleogels belong to this group. They are primarily recommended for problem skins and therefore used in the dermatological cosmetics. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2004 (4), 6-7
Masks - the speedy refreshers
Clients of beauty institutes prefer individual treatments showing quick and visible results. Possible solutions here are masks in combination with effective active agents. published inKosmetik International2002 (3), 32-34
Innovative powder products - from urea powder to wrinkle killers
Powders are an essential component of the decorative skin care. In the course of time their composition has changed considerably and besides their application on normal skin, they are also used on problem skin today as well as for the optical reduction of wrinkles. More details are given in the following article. published inKosmetische Praxis2007 (2), 14-16
Eye care - new agents against wrinkles
The sensitive eye area demands for an excellent base care and well tolerable actives to balance out fine lines, dark circles below the eyes and weakening elasticity. published in Kosmetik International 2006 (5), 61-63
Energizers - masks and packs
Masks or packs are essential elements of a large variety of cosmetic treatments. Unfortunately, it frequently falls into oblivion that these products in fact are some sort of quick-change artists. By adding different active agent concentrates and base creams, they are able to adapt to the specific needs of the skin. published inKosmetik International2002 (8), 34-37
Dermatological cosmetics - linking cosmetics and medicine
The term "dermatological cosmetics" already alludes to the combination of dermatology and skin care. Dermatological cosmetics, what does it actually mean? What is the difference between dermatological and conventional cosmetics? Based on a present-day example the concepts of dermatological skin and beauty care and their compatibility with the existing law will be described in the following. published inKosmetische Praxis2005 (5), 12-14
Concentrated agents: sera and ampoules
Quick results, problem solutions, intensive care... these are the keywords connected with sera, ampoules and active agent concentrates to be applied either directly or in form of masks, packs or other special treatments in the beauty institutes. published inKosmetik International2004 (5), 72-74
Balneological products - application and benefits
Bathing is very relaxing. It soothes body and soul. And this is the reason why cultivated bathing habits, in the therapeutical field also called balneology or hydrotherapy become increasingly popular again. published inKosmetik International2001 (3), 98-100
All-purpose talcum free powder bases with urea
All-purpose powder bases for use in decorative cosmetics, skin care and dermatology are described. Besides covering compounds, such as mineral pigments and physiologically compatible amides, urea plays a major role, particularly in use of powder bases on problem skin. published inKosmetische Medizin2006 (2), 68-70
Skin analysis - with the support of modern instruments
The skin analysis as a main component of the cosmetic treatment forms the basis for successful skin-specific concepts. A large supply of different instruments may facilitate the skin diagnosis. However, what are the specific performance features of these instruments? published inKosmetik International2003 (3), 102-104
Skin analysis - customer interview to complement measurements
While subjectively rating a cosmetic product the human brain processes a multitude of sensory stimuli. Though, subjective ratings and objective skin analyses taken by measuring devices are not always identical. published inKosmetik International2004 (8), 72-74
Instruments for skin analysis
An accurate analysis of the skin type establishes customer confidence, is the basis for a specific skin treatment and promotes the sale of skin care products. Special measuring instruments can optimize the analysis published inKosmetik International2001 (1), 90
Vitamin K for a healthy and beautiful skin
Vitamin K is an essential nutrient for the human body. Vitamin K belongs to the fat-soluble vitamins and naturally occurs in two different types, i.e. vitamin K1 and vitamin K2. Vitamin K1 is mainly assimilated through vegetable food whereas vitamin K2 is formed by intestinal bacteria as e.g. Escherichia coli. published inKosmetik International2005 (7), 89
Category: special actives
Specific active agents and bases in corneotherapy
The term corneotherapy was coined in the late nineties1) by Professor Albert M. Kligman. The basic idea of corneotherapy is that topically applied substances as e.g. moisturizers and lipids influence the biochemistry and physics in the horny layer as well as subsequent processes in deeper skin layers which again have effects on the constitution of the horny layer. published inKosmetische Medizin2004 (2), 72-74
Category: special actives
Precious load - transport of active agents
Within the field of skin care and dermatology active agents play the most important role. Appropriate transport systems ensure that active agents are transported to the areas where they are really needed. published inKosmetik International2006 (7), 57-61
Category: special actives
Strong effects - phospholipids in cosmetics
Phospholipids are indispensable for the live organism and play an essential role for both health and nutrition due to a great variety of different functions. They also prove to be perfect base substances for cosmetic products. published inKosmetik International2003 (2), 38-40
Category: special actives
Treatment of actinic keratoses with a new olibanum extract
Millions of vacationers deliberately expose themselves to excessive UV radiation. As a result, the risk of UV-related skin damage is rapidly increasing. Sun worshippers thus have to expect an increased risk for actinic keratoses (a carcinoma in situ). Most recent estimates prove that about 8 million Germans suffer from actinic keratoses. There is an estimated prevalence of about 15 percent among individuals over 40 and one out of two of the persons over 60 is affected with such skin lesions. published in Kosmetische Medizin 2005 (4), 184-185
Category: special actives
Olibanum - embedded in nanoparticles
A substantial increase of inflammatory skin diseases such as neurodermatitis, psoriasis and actinic keratoses but also skin cancer has been observed worldwide. The serious barrier and cornification disorders involved can now be treated with frankincense, the lately discovered cosmetic agent. published inKosmetik International2005 (9), 86-87
Category: special actives
Liposomes
INTRODUCTION: Publications about and patents on liposomes, along with their different chemical components, preparation, and use in skincare products have often been reviewed [1-4]. The reviews do not need any additional comments. Of interest are general questions, such as why liposomes should be used in cosmetics, what functionalities are expected from them, and what advantages they do provide compared with alternative formulations.The properties of the widely used main component of liposomes, phosphatidylcholine, play a key role in answering these questions. Other compounds such as niotensides and ceramides, which are naturally predestined for the preparation of liposomes, are less important today. Niotensides do not offer superior claims, and ceramides are not available in sufficient quantities and qualities at affordable prices. published inHandbook of Cosmetic Science and Technologyp. 155-163 edited by:A. O. Barel, M. Paye and H. I. MaibachCRC Press Taylor & Francis Group, Boca Raton 2006
Category: special actives
High tech agents: new - improved - and more effective?
In skin care products, the essential sales argument on the manufacturers' side and the decisive factor on the part of consumers to buy the product are the active agents contained. Accordingly, the cosmetic industry is continually researching for new and better agents. What are their specific features and what effects do we expect? published inKosmetische Praxis2005 (3), 6-8
Category: special actives
Enzymes - the silent brownies
Enzymes are substances of very special kind. They are the brownies in the metabolism of live organisms as they compose or degrade the substances involved. They take care of almost every single chemical transformation, silently, ecologically and without leaving any waste products. They can also be selectively used in the field of cosmetics. published inKosmetik International2006 (1), 46-48
Category: special actives
Encapsulated substances - the capacity of carrier systems
Liposomes and nanoparticles have a high affinity to the horny layer of the skin due to their composition. With the help of these carrier systems water and oil soluble substances can easier penetrate the skin. published inKosmetik International2001 (2), 112-116
Category: special actives
Corneotherapy - ...more than just a surface application
Experience shows that besides their influence on the release of active agents base creams can have substantial effects of their own. published inDermaforum 2004 (8)Forum Ästhetische Dermatologie 2004 (3), 1
Category: special actives
Active agents: liposomes, nanoparticles & co
Life can only exist in an atmosphere which provides protection against outside influences. Thus, monocellular living organisms are protected by cell membranes whereas multicellular organisms are provided with an exterior skin whose outermost layer, the epidermis also has a membrane-like structure which together with its specific composition serves as a model for cosmetic and dermatic products. published in Beauty Forum 2003 (5), 84-86
Category: special actives
Emulsifiers enable mixtures
Emulsifiers are indispensable wherever lipids, oils and waxes are mixed with hydrophilic media with the objective of obtaining a stable mixture over a certain period of time. They are, among others components of food and cleaning agents, lubricants and cosmetics. published inKosmetische Praxis2004 (3), 8-10
A closer look on natural agents: facts and future aspects
Natural agents have always been a topical issue and also the object of vigorous advertising campaigns. The general public certainly associates the terms natural and biological with purity, harmlessness and good tolerance. However, not every product labeled with the term natural also contains pure natural ingredients. As usual, there are the little things that always cause trouble and particular attention should be paid to the specific terminology. published inKosmetische Praxis2006 (5), 8-10
Additives in cosmetic products
Besides the lipid substances for skin caring purposes and the lipid and water soluble active agents the INCI declaration of a cosmetic product generally lists a variety of further ingredients. They may be categorized with the term "additives" and have various functions. published in Kosmetische Praxis 2004 (1), 8-10
Emulsifiers - looking for alternatives
Emulsifiers stabilize emulsions. Yet, evidence that emulsifiers may cause skin irritations is mounting. While looking for alternatives it was found out that stable creams for a variety of different applications can be produced on the basis of skin-related substances. published in Kosmetik International2000 (12), 112-113
Shelf life and preservation
Along with the latest amendment of the German Cosmetic Decree (KVO) a new regulation becomes effective. Products with a shelf life of more than 30 months or more have to be labeled with the symbol of an open jar together with the date indicating how long the product may be safely used after opening. The author takes the opportunity to have a closer look at the connections between preservation and shelf life of cosmetic products. published inBeauty Forum2004 (6), 68-69
Vegetable oils and extracts - essential components
The use of oils and extracts for basic skin care purposes already has a long tradition and still retains its relevance today. Frequently singular substances with defined effect can successfully be isolated, very often however this specific effect is closely related to the extract or respectively the oil as an integral whole or, in other words it results from synergy effects of different substances. More information on the extraction, manufacturing process and properties of fatty and essential oils as well as vegetable extracts is provided in the following. published inKosmetische Praxis2007 (4), 8-10
INCI - Declaration
The ingredients of cosmetic products are declared in accordance with INCI standards. Knowing how to read the INCI provides information on the ingredients and gives important clues whether the particular customer can tolerate certain products or whether the cosmetics contain substances which should rather be avoided. published inKosmetik International2002 (11), 50-53
Preservatives
Preservatives are added to cosmetics in order to prevent product deterioration and combined with it to avoid any possible health risks involved for the consumer. In the following you will be informed about products which particularly require these additives, about the basics of preservatives and about possible alternatives. published inKosmetische Praxis2005 (2), 6-8
Ceramides - lipids with multiple assignments
In combination with other skin components ceramides form a natural barrier in the horny layer. They prevent the dehydration of the skin. There are new products which support the skin-own formation of ceramides. published inKosmetik International1999 (11), 124-126
Preservatives - germs et al. under control
Microbiological stability is a must for cosmetic products. Consequently preservatives are among the essential additives in cosmetics. They protect the products against microorganisms during the manufacturing process as well as during storage and application and they also are the deciding factor for the duration of their shelf life. published inKosmetische Praxis2004 (2), 12-14
Water and water - just not the same things: water qualities
When discussing active agents in cosmetics, very often the most important one is ignored: water! Professor Albert M. Kligman even speaks of "water dermatology" as an essential element of corneotherapy. In fact the quality of the water significantly influences the skin condition in a positive as well as in a negative way. published inKosmetische Praxis2005 (4), 8-10
Free from preservatives
The microbiological stability of a cosmetic product is the prerequisite for its sales capacity. publishedin Kosmetik International2002 (9), 105
Lipophilic substances - oils and lipids in cosmetic products
Although they apparently fail to show any spectacular effects, oils and lipids belong to the most important ingredients in cosmetic products. From the corneotherapeutic point of view they are right in the focus of current interest: selectively applied they help to regenerate damaged skin. published inKosmetik International2004 (11), 46-48
Active agents, the effective skin care - vitamins, oils & more
From A like allantoin to Z like zinc. There is a multitude of active agents on the market either as substances to be used for cosmetics or substances contained in cosmetics. Effects as well as efficacy depend on various factors which will be described in detail in the following article. published inKosmetische Praxis2003 (5), 14-15
Quite a lot of different applications - new oils and extracts
An unprecedented number of new oils and extracts is currently introduced into the cosmetic market. To provide some assistance here, Dr. Hans Lautenschlaeger presents an overview on promising substances and their effects. published inKosmetik International2007 (3), 72-76
Ingredients - objective information appreciated
There is in-depth coverage on spectacular active agents in cosmetics. By contrast, base substances and additives are rather found in small print, though they give detailed information on tolerance and long-term effects of the product. published inKosmetik International 2004 (3), 80-82
Emulsions - micro-emulsions - nano-emulsions
Cosmetic products have a multitude of technical terms and it is difficult to keep track of it. On the other hand just a basic overview enables to infer to their practical properties. Taking a look at the microcosm of emulsions is worth the effort. published inKosmetik International2002 (2), 44-47
Active agents, the effective skin care - smoothing the skin and providing overall protection
Active agents are a favorite subject of discussions and an important topic of many publications. Above all, the advertising material provides abundant printed information. However, what are the specific features of active agents, how do they work and what are their advantages and disadvantages? All these questions will be answered in the following article. published inKosmetische Praxis2003 (4), 6-8
Active agents - the effective skin care: lipids, the basic elements
Lipids play an important role among cosmetic active agents for the skin care. In terms of quantity, they are the most frequently used ingredients of cosmetics besides water. Seen from the historic perspective, skin care actually began with the use of lipids. Depending on geographical regions and culture, olive oil, sesame oil, sperm oil and animal lipids of different origin were the first basic skin care substances. published inKosmetische Praxis2003 (6), 6-8
Skin care for the neurodermitic skin - supporting the skin barrier
Dehydrated skin and a high transepidermal water loss (TEWL) are characteristic symptoms of the neurodermitic skin. Especially during the winter season an adequate skin care accompanying the treatment and above all its specific formulation is an important issue. published inKosmetische Praxis2005 (1), 9-11
Skin barrier disorders - preventive measures
Skin barrier disorders are a widely spread phenomenon today. Most frequently the symptoms are dry and sensitive skin and serious cases of skin disorders are neurodermatitis, psoriasis and cornification disorders in general. published inKosmetik International2003 (9), 36-39
Reddened Skin - what may cause the symptom?
Everyone cares for even skin as it is a symbol for health and cleanness. It's quite a nuisance when red spots appear and even more annoying if their cause is unknown. The following information provides some assistance to detect the causes. published inKosmetik International2005 (8), 34-36
Psoriasis - the appropriate care
Psoriasis is a partially hereditary skin condition with intermittent attacks which may be triggered by additional environmental or nutritional factors or by mental stress. An appropriate skin care may relieve its symptoms. published inKosmetik International2002 (10), 32-35
Photodamaged skin: sun-bathing and after sun care
Overexposure to UV radiation causes serious long-term skin damage, premature skin aging and may even trigger skin cancer. Even if the infrared light of the sun seems harmless though, it may build up extremely high temperatures in the outermost skin layers and as a consequence also lead to premature skin aging. published inKosmetische Praxis2006 (3), 8-9
Neurodermatitis - specific prevention
Neurodermatitis is a major strain for the persons affected, above all due to the permanently dry and frequently itching skin. A well-designed skin care with appropriate products helps to reduce these symptoms. published inKosmetik International2001 (11), 44-47
Mixed skin - a skin with two different faces
In the daily practice frequently questions come up regarding the appropriate cosmetic treatment. Mixed skin: What does it actually mean? How can we receive adequate measuring results and what is the best care - all these questions are answered in the following. published inKosmetik International2005 (11), 32-34
Good looks, protection and skin care all inclusive: make-up for the problem skin
Make-up literally is cosmetics in the true sense of the word - it enhances the individual appearance. And from time immemorial a multitude of different pigments, dyes and mineral components has been used for this purpose. Protecting and maintaining a healthy skin however has rather been regarded as a medical issue. Today the cosmetic sector covers skin care as well as decorative aspects, and if a combination of both features works in one single product, specifically customers with problem skin will benefit. published inKosmetische Praxis2006 (6), 8-9
Irritated skin - skin in a state of turmoil
Irritation - what exactly does it mean? In general the term is explained as an overreaction to an insignificant or even trivial incident. Now, what applies for the area of mental balance may also be extended to the skin. Skin irritations, their causes as well as their treatment will be discussed in the following article. published inKosmetische Praxis2005 (6), 16-18
History and current aspects of corneotherapy 1)
The term corneotherapy was coined by A. Kligman. A persistent corneotherapeutic treatment of the disturbed homeostasis as the characteristic feature of atopic dermatitis with appropriate skin care substances may achieve substantial clinical effects. In summary, it can be said that corneotherapy aims at the recovery of the stratum corneum and above all, it improves the function of the skin barrier and subsequently also the overall homeostasis of the skin. For the purposes of a preventive corneotherapy it is essential to avoid skin care products with harmful substances such as irritants and allergens, to select the appropriate skin care substances, to individually adapt the skin care products to the specific skin problems and to possibly change behavioral patterns following a corneotherapeutic consultation. Recent clinical studies have indicated that not only barrier disorders like atopic dermatitis respond to corneotherapy. Also cornification disorders and dermatoses may be treated adjuvantly with success. The studies are based on a therapy with membrane structure products closely related to the chemical and physical structure in the stratum corneum. An important precondition obviously is the presence of phosphatidylcholine. Phosphatidylcholine may be used in membrane creams (barrier creams) and liposomes. Further galenic forms are nanoparticles and oleogels. It depends on the skin analysis and the specific skin problem which galenic form is the most effective treatment for the particular case. Moreover, modular systems allow the addition of pharmaceutical and cosmetic actives. One of the major advantages is the fact that corneotherapy is largely free of the side effects known from topical pharmaceuticals. Preventively applied, corneotherapy may extend the intervals between attacks and reduce or even avoid the use of conventional dermatics. published inKosmetische Medizin26 (2), 58-60 (2005)
Essential fatty acids - cosmetic from inside and outside
Our body depends on numerous substances which have to be replenished with our daily nutrition. Certain fatty acids are among these essential substances. Deficiencies have a detrimental effect for the human organism and skin. published inBeauty Forum2003 (4), 54-56
Couperosis - a field for active agent concentrates
Couperosis - a complicated cosmetic topic: quite a few questions regarding its origin and treatment are still waiting for an answer. Just like other problem skins also couperosis demands for a thoroughly balanced skin care. Particularly in the field of supporting prevention skin care plays a significant role and all the more if the skin is susceptible to couperosis or if there is a family history of couperosis cases. published inKosmetische Praxis2007 (1), 8-10
Cornification disorders - the adequate skin care
Keratoses of the skin are common public diseases. As a result, also cosmeticians are frequently faced with questions regarding the care of the affected skin. In the following, you will find interesting information on active agents, cream bases as well as cleansing and skin care products for these conditions. published inKosmetische Praxis2004 (6), 6-8
Actinic keratoses - an endemic disease?
Millions of vacationers deliberately expose themselves to excessive UV radiation. As a result, the risk of UV-related skin damage is rapidly increasing. Sun worshippers thus have to expect an increased risk for actinic keratoses (a carcinoma in situ). Most recent estimates prove that about 8 million Germans suffer from actinic keratoses. There is an estimated prevalence of about 15 percent among individuals over 40 and one out of two of the persons over 60 is affected with such skin lesions. published inÄsthetische Dermatologie (mdm)2005 (4), 31-32
"Acne caused by too many different moisturizing factors in creams?"
Moisturizing factors in cosmetic products mostly relate to the NMF (natural moisturizing factor) components. published in Leserforum: Kosmetische Praxis2006 (3), 4
Acne - prevention and care
Acne is one of the most frequent skin problems beauty institutes are confronted with. Acne customers and above all the younger generation among them often go through a personal ordeal and generally have high expectations of a cosmetic treatment. published inKosmetik International2003 (5), 27-31
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