The formula of the cream presented by Mr. Martens, a TV reporter, simply reconfirms A.M. Kligman's studies on corneotherapy. By carefully stabilizing the horny layer (stratum corneum) with appropriate cosmetic components (moisturizer, lipid substances) this therapy can achieve clinic effects in deeper epidermis layers. The treatment is also called outside-in-therapy. The treatment of persons suffering from barrier disorders requires some patience though. In the long run, however, it may be an alternative to cortisone and similar substances without any side effects. The effects usually become visible after a period of 2 - 3 weeks.
The ingredients of the vitamin B12 cream are as follows:
0.07 g vitamin B12
This vitamin plays a significant part in eliminating the NO radicals. The most important NO scavengers in the skin are the amino acids of the natural NMF (natural moisturizing factor). Hence, a skin care which is based on the natural amino acids of the skin is extremely effective. The availability of amino acids but also vitamin B12 may be improved by encapsulating them into liposomes. Small amounts of vitamin B12 can also be found in yeast extracts which can as well be applied in liposomal form.
46 g avocado oil
The oil contains essential fatty acids - mainly ω-6 acids which form anti-inflammatory metabolites in the skin. Beyond that, the high phytosterol content of avocado oil has skin protecting effects similar to the epidermal cholesterol. Shea butter (phytosterols) and evening primrose oil (high ω-6 acid content) or linseed oil (high ω-3 acid content) can alternatively be used. The ω-3 acid metabolites are also highly effective against inflammations. It should be pointed out that the described effects can only be achieved with topical products but not with an oral agent.
45.42 g water
8 g Tegocare PS
This term stands for the emulsifier "Methyl Glucose Sequistearate". Emulsifiers (additives) combine the lipid phase (avocado oil) and the water phase. Emulsifiers frequently have counterproductive effects and can be avoided by using DMS cream bases (DMS = derma membrane structure) and/or liquid nanoparticles for the formulation of fatty oils (avocado oils, evening primrose oil, linseed oil). This type of nanoparticles is physiologically compatible and 100 percent biodegradable. Liquid nanoparticles fuse with the skin barrier where they form an active agent depot.
0.26 g potassium sorbate
Potassium sorbate is a preservative. Preservatives are not recommended for problem skins as they may cause allergies. According to current knowledge they can be completely avoided even without significantly decreasing the shelf life of the creams.
0.25 g citric acid
Citric acid is added in order to adjust the cream to the neutral pH level of the skin. In other words, the cream corresponds to the natural pH level of the skin.
In our experience the anti-inflammatory effect of boswellia acids can also be rather beneficial. Boswellia acids inhibit the 5-lipoxygenase (natural enzyme of the body) which is responsible for the formation of inflammation-causing leukotriens. This has been broadly covered in various publications.
- ARD TV broadcast "Heilung unerwünscht", 19.10.09, 21:00
- ARD TV broadcast "Hart aber fair", 21.10.09, 21:45-23:00 (Frank Plasberg)
- Formulation of Vitamin B12 cream: Link via www.wdr.de/tv/hartaberfair/ (22. Okt. 2009)
- H.-U. Jabs, Ästhetische Dermatologie 2008 (3), 28-36
- H. Lautenschläger, Kosmetik International 2009 (1), 16-18
- A. M. Kligman et al., Dermatology 2000;200:308-313
- H. Lautenschläger, Kosmetische Praxis 2009 (3), 15-17
Dr. Hans Lautenschläger